Answering your questions as best I can:

1. I do not know how much hp and torque I gained. But, that's not HD's fault. Our city of 100,000 simply has no local dyno. Heck, it used to have an HD dealer, but no longer. HD DOES indicate that a full stage 1 tune (hardware and software) will improve hp and torque by about 10%. I don't need to know the exact figure. It's not a race bike and I don't bench race other HD or non HD riders. I was actually quite happy with the OEM power and especially the torque for my type of riding. But the Stage 1 adds sound, smoothness, eager, and more power, and also something I view as REALLY helpful: the ability to see "engine gauges" on my handlebar-mounted iPhone.

2. No exact and useful dollars per hp since I don't know exactly how much power I picked up, AND I bought my slip-on SE mufflers used. My bike also came from the factory with a highflow air intake (Heavy Breather). But if I actually did get about 10% more power, that would be 10% of 94 rwhp = 9.4 hp, which would be roughly 11 crankshaft hp. Total cost for a retail (versus used) buyer would be about $1400 Canadian = $1020 US at today's exchange rate. So, about $1020 / 11 = $93 per crankshaft hp. I tdon't view that as unreasonable, but then remember I am more impressed by the sound, smoothness, eagerness, and customizable iPhone display gauges.

3. First, in Canada, it's a $27000 motorcycle in Canadian dollars. And it did NOT need to be modified to make good power. The M8 117 engine make VERY satisfactory power as it comes from the factory. It will hit 60 mph in under 3 seconds, and run the quarter mile in the very low 11s if the rider has the proper skills. That's way more than "good enough" for a cruiser. It's not a racebike or even a sport bike. It's a cruiser. Why would you think that level of stock performance is somehow deficient??

Hope that answers your questions.

If you are a sport rider or racer, God bless you. But, if so, your needs, and your expectations, are quite different from mine.

Jim G

 

You did not do your homework on the Breakout, and did not actually "listen" to what I said. The performance figures I quoted for the Breakout are accurate. Performance simulation software with an excellent record on accuracy for both motoryccles and cars proves it. And I NEVER said my goal was power. And I am not interested in cheaper ways of getting more power either. I've had that plenty of power in the past ('72 Kawasaki H2, '70 Norton Roadster, '69 Honda CB750, Hayabusa, Ducati 996, Ducati S2 Monster lightened to 375 lb (took 2nd place in show), '14 Breakout with Stage 4, ZX-12R lightened by 60 lb, etc). My last bike was a greatly lightened '08 Kawasaki ZX-6R with a 16,500 rev limit. But I have owned close to 60 motorcycles in the past 56 years, so I know what I want at different seasons in my life, and what I wanted this time was a CRUISER (as I thought I made pretty clear in my previous posting). And I explained that I had mostly OTHER objectives, more important than power, in doing the Stage 1. I'm not going to repeat this again, so LISTEN to it and "get it" this time.

Any by the way, do you realize that in Australia, the Breakout is the highest selling volume HD model, and it's NOT because it is powerful. It's because it's the right total package for a certain type of cruiser.

If you are "not a Harley guy", why on Earth are you even here on the forum? And why do you claim to own and like an FX? Are you just a bored troll needing a fix? Do us all a favor and leave us in peace.

Jim G

 

Jim, I found ithe SE very glitchy as well. After loading the modified “smart tune” from the IPhone the software was supposed to drop the updated S1 smart tune map in the files folder. Nope not there, I’m sure there’s a cloud download step I missed. Bill paying is taking up most of the time this week, hoping to dig in this weekend.

Got to give NotaHguy credit, at least he was open about being a contrarian. I’m sure the ZXR and ZX is faster than the FXDR and I’m certain on stock rubber a great rider would be hard pressed to dip into the 11’s on any current 117. I could be wrong but low 11’s puts you in the 115-120 MPH range and that takes a bit of RPM.

We’ve all had fast bikes GSXR, Zx, R1, FZ, ABC123 on down the line. Can’t believe the Porsche 911GT3 RS is faster than an air cooled type 993. Let us know when you grab your ball hone, run down to Kawasaki and get some .005 rings, cams and start the build. Apples and oranges.

I’d like to see an example of a non-HD 1200CC, air cooled making 100-120 HP on 93 pump. Closest I’ve seen is the BMW RT bikes and they are pricey and hideous. You can easily build an over 100 hp sporty for 8k and you won’t have a ride like a professor.


NotaHguy is a rider and that’s cool with me, as I’m a bit contrarian myself.

 

You've had your say. But it does not belong here in this thread. This is a thread about installing, using, and troubleshooting the Bluetooth tuner, not about whether Harleys are a good or bad choice for individual riders. Let's please get back on topic, because forum members who search for Bluetooth tuner information aren't going to appreciate diversions like yours that just waste their time. If discussing the worthiness or unworthiness of improving a Harley is super important to you, please start your own new thread, make your speech there, and invite others to agree or disagree with you.

Right HERE, I am looking for any insights or assistance that a Harley rider with experience with the Bluetooth tuner can provide to make its use easier and with fewer surprises, for anyone else interested in getting the tuner or currently having difficulty learning to use it. And I suspect that is also the goal of anyone who finds this thread and patiently reads its lengthy content. Please respectfully support this by not adding content that is entirely extraneous to the purpose of this thread,

Jim G

 

You are fixated on what YOU value and what YOU want to discuss. "Performance" is not just power and/or acceleration. As I have repeatedly stated, my "performance" measures for this tuner include reasonable ease of use, reasonable freedom from bugs, engine smoothness, tuned engine eagerness to run at any given rpm (in low, medium, and higher speed environments), temperature stability (which is hard for a 117 cu in air cooled engine that buyers would barely accept an oil cooler on), ability to avoid spark retard, fuel mileage, ability to provide useful "live gauges" information, etc.

I am hoping that owners experienced with this tuner will chime in with their assessments of, and pointers on, this tuner, despite your off-topic speeches on why HD motorcycles and other HD riders with wants different than you disappoint you by defining performance differently than you do. Anything else you say I'll just ignore since you don't appear to have anything to contribute about this tuner that could be helpful to me and others.

I hope you find some peace, and will be courteous enough to allow the rest of us to have it too.

Jim G

 

if your not trying to flame, why ask a question you know the answer to and phrase it in an inflammatory way? You clearly wanted to start a controversy. If you want to be taken serious, find a way to contribute and stop trying to torch threads. I think you will find a helpful community here of genuine Harley enthusiasts and many, like you, who appreciate other brands and styles of two-wheeled and three-wheeled fun.

 

Something that I should mention when using any Bluetooth device is the potential for Bluetooth interference, priority control, and unplanned Bluetooth shutdown:

I happen to wear hearing aids that connect to my iPhone via Bluetooth, so that I can use the phone more effectively despite my hearing impairment. I have been careful to remove my hearing aids when using the tuner.

This is because Bluetooth connectivity between multiple devices gets pretty tricky at times. My understanding of Bluetooth protocols suggests that if my Bluetooth hearing aids and my HD Bluetooth tuner try to interact with my iPhone simultaneously, then at a minimum, one of the 2 devices (tuner or hearing aids) will be prioritized at the expense of the other, since obviously 2 different Bluetooth conversations between 3 devices cannot work well. In the worst case scenario, one or more of the 3 devices will drop Bluetooth connectivity, at least until the "other" Bluetooth conversation ceases. Sometimes, the Bluetooth pairing process would need to be redone wby the user, not automatically by the devices. So I never run the hearing aids when using the tuner, and especially when making tuning changes to the ECM, as a disruption of the Bluetooth connection could make the ECU program corrupted and thus the ECU then cannot run the motorcycle.

The apparent inability to run the hearing aids at the same time as the tuning app on the iPhone is not an issue for me. I hear well enough without the hearing aids to ride safely in traffic, and when tuning in the garage, I simply remove the hearing aids and shut them off. The Bluetooth connection between the iPhone and the HD BCI keeps the desirable "gauges" function working fine when I am riding.

As an important aside though, if you want the gauges on the cellPhone to be visible to you, along with the cellPhone's ability to display GPS directions via the Google Maps app on the cellphone, it is apparently important to use a cellphone mount that includes a proven antivibration module, that protects the phone's delicate autofocusing mechanism from vibratory damage. I just bought a different phone mount that includes a supposedly highly effective antivibration module. I hope the manufacturer's claims for it are not exaggerated!

Jim G

 

The anti-vibration mount won't have any effect on displaying Google Maps or this software on the screen.
Vibrations will only damage the camera, and that will only affect picture taking. Nothing else.

But, heat and sunlight will affect the visibility of the screen, and how the phone is running and charging.
That will affect the various apps, including this software.

 

That is good info for tuner users to know. Thank-you. I know we have discussed the vibration issue elsewhere in a separate dedicated thread, but given the ability to set up the Bluetooth tuner for realtime gauage display, and also the separate desirability of seeing the individual data cells populate during a "Smart Tune recording" session, I figured I should mention it here, as some users might not know about the vibration affecting the camera system.

Same rationale for mentioning the Bluetooth issue. Many HD users will have Bluetooth sound systems built into either their bike or their helmet, and if the phone is being used for that sound system, the sound system and the tuner BCI will both be trying to access the phone at the same time.

Jim G

 

Each bluetooth connection is on a different frequency and handled separately. Having multiple devices connected to the phone via bluetooth will not compromise using the tuner.

A quick and simple explanation of bluetooth:
https://www.codamusictech.com/pages/how-bluetooth-works