Had a T700 (adventure bike) with Pirellis scorpions and they had serious road grip. Decided to go with ADV tires on the sporty - Conti trail attack 3. The A3 is a 90/10 road/gravel tire. And I’m digging the contis, super lateral grip and they handle the Appalachian roads - runoff gravel, water, debris and grooves with nary a wiggle.

Wish Conti made a 180/70/16, they would be on my FXLRS. I’m at 2k on the low rider and the scorchers are about 75% done. Usually I get 3k out of a rear and it’s a 2:1 swap with the front. The low rider is eating the front more than I expected, so it probably will be a new set every 3k.

Y’all got me thinking on Metzeler now. Looking for as much grip as possible, really don’t mind the short lifespan.

 

Cruisetech 19" on my '02 Dyna LowRider after 7,000 miles. I couldn't understand how a properly inflated (36 psi) tire running NC country back roads 90% of its life could wear so unevenly at such a low mileage.

I wrote Metzeler and they blamed the roads that I ride on (crown in the road, rough macadam (chip and tar method,) surface, high NC summer temps.)
They offered a discount on my next purchase (which was a Metzeler ME 888.) No issues with that one so far.)



EDIT TO ADD (No issues with the Cruisetech rear at the same mileage.)

 

"I couldn't understand how a properly inflated (36 psi)"

I was under the impression Metzler tire pressure was 40psi or higher.

 

The owners manual calls for 30 lbs Running 32 lbs on my bike. (Excuse the mis-type above.)

As to more air, I quote the Metzeler website:

"Remember to check the inflation pressure of your tires weekly. You will find the correct pressure in the operating manual of the motorcycle. Use Metzeler’s information only as reference"

https://www.metzeler.com/en-us/tech-...ty-maintenance

 

I have a stock size bias Cruisetec on the front, and a stock size Cobra Chrome radial on the rear. I rode the dragon (1 up) with the front at 32-33 and the rear at 38 on my Heritage. Handled very well. Upped the front to 34-35 and it didn't feel as good. I have a FOBO TPMS so I don't need to overinflate to account for a possible slow leak. Believe me, I'll get a warning. I'm sure this increases tire wear, but I'll live with it. 2 up I'll run the recommended 40 in the rear.

 

Thank you. Yes the manual, but I wasn't sure if that was specific to OEM tires... Which you cleared up. With that in mind I started lower than recommended like my OEM tires.

I took a long ride today. An hour both ways. I started at 28 psi on the front and got a 15% rise. So I am going to go with 29 and run with that for a while. The rear is working well at 35.

They are certainly broke in at this point. While I can't say I knew the cornering limits of my old tires... At least braking at this point is ridiculous. Lock up is brutal. They stick. Now that tire pressure is in the ballpark, I'll have to get used to how they feel. They absolutely do want to turn. That part is very much confidence inspiring. So easy to throw around.

I have some Lyndall pads coming Tuesday so I'll see how that goes.

 

I fine-tune my tyre pressures to suit my type of riding. If it doesn't feel right, it isn't. Bike manuals always set pressure that will safely meet all eventualities to cover themselves. Factory pressures are a base figure, just as factory suspension settings are on metric bikes. They're not optimums. Most riders have more specific needs. I've just found that 34F/28R seems me for almost every bike I've owned. I'm not saying it's the "right" set-up that everyone should use. Just works for me.

I thought things might be different when I bought my Harley because it's quite a different beast to the big adventure bikes and lightweight, high power supernakeds I'm used to, so I went with factory pressures for a while. But I found the feed back wooden and the grip lacking. It wasn't terrible but I started playing with tyre pressures until I reached the sweet spot where everything felt right. And bingo, there it was again: 34F/38R. Guess that just works for me. 190 lb rider, always solo, rarely carries any luggage, fairly spirited riding, modest UK summer temperatures.

I'm switching from the stock Scorchers to Cruisertecs at my next tyre change. I'll ride with the recommended pressures at first to get a feel for the tyres, but I'll lay money I'll end up at my usual combination again.

 

Was hoping Vern Diesel would chime in, been about a year since he went with the radials.

 

So just want to update... The problem is, I'm not the guy. I wasn't riding the limits of the scorcher. I don't have experience with a bunch of other tires. So I don't have the experience... However... I am going to say they are much much better!

I was starting to push my ST more. The scorcher never felt sketchy, but the cruisetecs feel better. They just feel fore confident, more consistent predictable. As good tires should. They do "feel" better. I'm not going to say I feel everything in the road, just compliance is better, softer.

They are definitely sticky. I haven't broke anything lose, but braking is better. I could lock up rear or front at will with scorcher... But the cruisetecs... Ya, I can lock them up too... But just a lot harder. And I did get Lyndall pads, and they are better, which means less effort, but it's the tires that have to stick and they do.

The other day I got caught in a downpour. Sucks but I was close to home. Roads were kinda rutted with couple inches of water... Cars are throwing waves on me... I wasn't racing around, and I am sketched out in rain, but the tires never scared me. I just trusted them and they never slipped.

But number one reason is how they turn. I've gotten a lot more comfortable leaning it over. And playing around swerving in a lane, they just love turning. I've even goofed off swerving while braking hard coming to a stop... They just REALLY want to turn. Thing is actually flickable. Totally different than scorcher. I ran them soft and factory... I always had to muscle it around. Now my bike feels like a bicycle. It's a crazy difference. They just feel like there is nothing they won't take. I'm sold on that alone.

The only thing now... 10...7...5000 miles... Don't care. I'll keep buying them. I don't want to abuse them so hopefully I'll get decent milage but it doesn't matter what the number is.

Oh...and honestly... They look better too!

 

The shake during decelleration is partly due to the tire loosing the rounded cross section. I'd guess you have more wear in the center than the edges,
Another question: Does the difference in weight between a bias ply versus a radial affect the suspension compliance due to a difference in unsprung weight?