Not to hijack the current discussion, but a little update. My original Scorchers were well worn at 6000 miles, so I replaced with Cruistecs at 6300 miles. I'm just shy of 12000 miles now, and my cruisetecs still look great. They have wear, but nowhere close to "wore out". I think expecting another 4-6000 miles is not unreasonable. So the wear is great.
I did notice that the rear contact is a bit wide, so I recently increased rear pressure. I was running 28 psi front and 34 rear based on pressure rise of 10/20% F/R. The front isn't exactly 10. I could run 26 front, but I don't want to be that low. So 28. I added 2psi to rear for a trip and it's nirvana. Preload, damping, and tire pressure are perfectly matched front to rear. It all feels as ONE. Not that there isn't reasons to adjust tire pressure different, but right now everything is tweaked to perfection.
My old tire said I needed a touch more and less rebound F/R and my wear now on the Cruisetecs are perfectly equal and sharp on leading and trailing edges F&R.
I have gained a lot of confidence in grip. I'm still not dragging parts, but I know I can. Breaking is certainly increased. And something weird... I can't lock up my rear no matter what. Which I should be able to. I use Lyndall plus (mid level). I have flushed and bled the rear, and I even have pedal adjusted all the way up... I can't lock up the rear no matter what. The rear brakes really suck regardless what I've tried. 🤷 Now with my recent new exhaust and tuner, I do think I finally broke the rear loose. Coming out of a corner it stepped out a tad and then stopped. If that was "traction control" we'll it was really seamless. I've been meaning to turn that off and find out!
Turn in is still ridiculous and now pretty much normal to me. If I switched to worse, like OEM, that would really suck. All in all, I have zero intention of switching or trying something else. I love these tires and will buy again when wore out.
Last edited by Powermankw; 09-17-2024 at 09:56 AM.
Not to hijack the current discussion, but a little update. My original Scorchers were well worn at 6000 miles, so I replaced with Cruistecs at 6300 miles. I'm just shy of 12000 miles now, and my cruisetecs still look great. They have wear, but nowhere close to "wore out". I think expecting another 4-6000 miles is not unreasonable. So the wear is great.
I did notice that the rear contact is a bit wide, so I recently increased rear pressure. I was running 28 psi front and 34 rear based on pressure rise of 10/20% F/R. The front isn't exactly 10. I could run 26 front, but I don't want to be that low. So 28. I added 2psi to rear for a trip and it's nirvana. Preload, damping, and tire pressure are perfectly matched front to rear. It all feels as ONE. Not that there isn't reasons to adjust tire pressure different, but right now everything is tweaked to perfection.
My old tire said I needed a touch more and less rebound F/R and my wear now on the Cruisetecs are perfectly equal and sharp on leading and trailing edges F&R.
I have gained a lot of confidence in grip. I'm still not dragging parts, but I know I can. Breaking is certainly increased. And something weird... I can't lock up my rear no matter what. Which I should be able to. I use Lyndall plus (mid level). I have flushed and bled the rear, and I even have pedal adjusted all the way up... I can't lock up the rear no matter what. The rear brakes really suck regardless what I've tried. 🤷 Now with my recent new exhaust and tuner, I do think I finally broke the rear loose. Coming out of a corner it stepped out a tad and then stopped. If that was "traction control" we'll it was really seamless. I've been meaning to turn that off and find out!
Turn in is still ridiculous and now pretty much normal to me. If I switched to worse, like OEM, that would really suck. All in all, I have zero intention of switching or trying something else. I love these tires and will buy again when wore out.
My tire pressures actually went down from stock and my bridgestone.
With the Fat Boy, my previous tires I ran 40/42 FR.(Stock and Bridgestone).
New tires I'm running 36/36.
Dry performance these tires are pretty awesome.
My tires are at 5000 and they look pretty good
I hope the wear characteristics help the tires last 9~10K miles even when being hammered on.
Originally Posted by foxtrapper
Willing to try an illegal modification to the tire @FranBunnyFFXII ? If you've got a little grinder, you could cut rain grooves in the tire. That might help.
Picture below for reference.
You could cut grooves, diagonally joining the leading tips of the long water dispersion grooves across the flat center of the tire. You also might want to cut down the wear bars in those groves there near the center of the tread, they would be blocking water movement.
Cutting new grooves in the tire could create noise, and could create a wiggle due to the zig zag of the groove there across the center.
I wouldnt take a grinder to a tire unless I had a precision machine that would let me put perfectly measured out lines on the tread.
The solution of "Just Ride Slower and be more cautious" should be fine. I'm not trying to race in the rain.
My tire pressures actually went down from stock and my bridgestone.
With the Fat Boy, my previous tires I ran 40/42 FR.(Stock and Bridgestone).
New tires I'm running 36/36.
Dry performance these tires are pretty awesome.
My tires are at 5000 and they look pretty good
I hope the wear characteristics help the tires last 9~10K miles even when being hammered on.
I wouldnt take a grinder to a tire unless I had a precision machine that would let me put perfectly measured out lines on the tread.
The solution of "Just Ride Slower and be more cautious" should be fine. I'm not trying to race in the rain.
Another thing is we do notice if something is in the road. Maybe you didn't. Maybe it was more than rain... Meaning oil. Maybe you were just at a spot of really crappy traction on the road.
I was in Oklahoma and there was a stripe down the road of someone losing oil. I never ride in that regardless how old it looks. It comes to a stop sign... There were 2 lanes. But at the stop, what ever it was just took a giant **** in the road. Just a huge PUDDLE... like a LOT of gallons. It was crazy. People were going through it and it was fresh wet all the way thru the intersection and cars were tracking cross ways. Now I saw it, but at night 😳 If I had ran into it, no way I would have stopped without going down.
Last edited by Powermankw; 09-17-2024 at 11:47 AM.
Willing to try an illegal modification to the tire @FranBunnyFFXII ? If you've got a little grinder, you could cut rain grooves in the tire. That might help.
Picture below for reference.
You could cut grooves, diagonally joining the leading tips of the long water dispersion grooves across the flat center of the tire. You also might want to cut down the wear bars in those groves there near the center of the tread, they would be blocking water movement.
Cutting new grooves in the tire could create noise, and could create a wiggle due to the zig zag of the groove there across the center.
I really don't recommend doing this as it could have lethal consequences
Another thing is we do notice if something is in the road. Maybe you didn't. Maybe it was more than rain... Meaning oil. Maybe you were just at a spot of really crappy traction on the road.
I was in Oklahoma and there was a stipe down the road of someone losing oil. I never ride in that regardless how old it looks. It comes to a stop sign... There were 2 lanes. But at the stop what ever it was just took a giant **** in the road. Just a huge PUDDLE... like a LOT of gallons. It was crazy. People were going through it and it was fresh wet all the way thru the intersection and cars were tracking cross ways. Now I saw it, but at night 😳 If I had ran into it, no way I would have stopped without going down.
It's not a single spot thing. I've simply noticed the poor wet grip on the tire several times, but this one situation lead me to make a remark about it because it really seems like a situation where that tire shouldn't be slipping out.
It could also be that the H50 was in particular a good wet compound. That tire was being used by some shops to launch bikes with that didnt go with slicks. Moonshine HD was one of them that was running h50 rears when drag racing Harleys.
Moonshine HD posted this build, which has an H50 rear and makes 162hp.
I wish they made an H50 in 260.
:
I really don't recommend doing this as it could have lethal consequences
Eh, it's not that big a deal. Well, as long as you use some modicum of self control and don't go cutting down into the tire carcass where your tearing up cords and such.
I've done it off and on for years on various tires, with various degrees of success. I do have a true tire grooving tool, but honestly I usually find the little side angle grinder with a cutting wheel to be easier and faster. I use a razor blade for snow and ice siping, but that tends to be work.
Most of the time I don't bother with this, but with certain blocky tires, recutting the tread blocks square and sometimes adding additional block edges helps, especially on off-road tires. Not tractor tires, but motocross tires and the like.
On the street, sometimes I've found additional rain channeling to be very helpful at resisting hydroplaning. I think it might work well on the Cruisetec tire because of it's solid center section. Cutting cross grooves to the existing water channels could well help its wet traction.
With packed snow additional siping can be quite a help, but it's usually a tedious and tiring job to cut them in. You don't want them deep as it unstablizes the tread blocks.
Just be careful about your cutting depth, and don't get greedy. Don't try to cut deeper to extend tire life, and don't overcut tread making the tread blocks floppy. Do that and you can easily take an otherwise good tire and make it a squirmy mess.
The worth of this has largely fallen by the wayside as tire compounds have greatly improved, as have tread designs.
That's 6000 miles. And while I might not be scraping parts yet, I'm certainly not kind with the throttle.
I seem to be getting good mileage on the rear consistently. I had to swap the front to a different RG while the ‘19 was down and added an additional 3,000 miles on it. Back on the canyon racer and 12,000 on the rear (done) and 15,000 total on the front with about 2,000 miles still left in her.
09-17-2024 | 09:50 AM
