There are aftermarket plug & play extensions for handlebar controls. See example. My Low Rider ST has four wire bundles. Right control. Left control. Throttle by wire. And the instrument cluster.

It's possible to add a splice to each of the wires as long as you solder correctly and heat shrink.

More qualified people can weigh in, but I'd use extensions when possible.

 

I went with Namz extension’s and a gauge extension that came with my relocation kit from fxr division. No problems whatsoever. U just plug them in. Remove tank. Plug in extension’s. Cut lip off boot. Simple install.

 

Thanks guys... I figured there were solutions by now. Plenty of people go real tall. In my case the 6" riser is fine without anything else. But it is all tight and I definitely can't go more without extending everything. When I did my heated grips I ran an extra power line to the front and left plenty of extra in case I need more in the future, but all the stock stuff is maxed.

 

Not on Australian models, we have no cats!

 

The Saddlemen LS Step up puts you more forward and up. I have one for sale that came on my bike from the dealer if you're interested. I am a down and back type and like to feel in the bike rather than on top of it.

 

Are you sure? I just did 10.5” risers with 4.5” bars, and I’m 99% confident that with 4.5” less riser height, all the wire connections would be long enough after removing the caddy. I’ll double check tomorrow and snap some pictures.

 

Well ya if you remove the caddy. The stock bar are 4.5".... I can't see another 4.5" of wire available without the caddy. I didn't know you could just get rid of that.

With the caddy, I had to re-do my wiring from the bars to get them as straight as possible and not twisted. Without doing that, there was not enough slack to get them back in the boot and the boot back. Nothing I did got it back in. With enough slack, popped right in.

So then on the other side of the caddy... If I would have ditched it, I have no problem believing it would give me enough slack. Hell... Even now it would give me more slack, but I'm not taking it apart just for that. But a whole 4.5" of extra wire to be able to do 10.5s... I can't really see that. There is not enough clutch or brake line to go more on my bike either.

 

Hey guys,

Bit of a further update on the Puig. I'm 5'11" and sit on a HD sundowner. wife is 5'9" and as a result she sits a lot higher than me on the Sundowner. this screen is good, but sadly it does not deflect wind high enough for us, anyways. I have passed it on, which is a shame as it has the best transition of air (from the bubble to the full wind, flip screens create huge turbulence in the transition) that I have experienced with an aftermarket screen. I have reverted to my low HD gold screen or the OEM for now, but I would like to try the OEM HD10" before I buy it.

I was surprised how much protection the fairing still gives with the HD low deflector. and how much the wind roar is reduced.

I still believe that the best screens have no flip, and allow a smooth transition from the full protection, to the upper area where your head is and creates no turbulence. as in, the wind pressure is gradually increased as the screen effect drops off. This means that you can run a lower screen and get good protection, without introducing turbulence or wind roar (or both). As such I have found the OEM screen is still the best. perhaps slightly taller would be better but it needs to keep coming back toward the rider to allow the smooth transition.

 

Curious if there are longer rear brake lever I can put on. I took the pegs off and put mini floor boards on. I can get the brake lever adjusted up plenty, but found I was dragging my rear brake. So I adjusted it down to stop that, but I can really pivot my foot down to hit the rear brake... Cause it's not a peg. I was wondering if there was a longer lever so I can hit better with board, but don't rest on it with it so close to mini board.

 

Yes- the Heritage one is made for boards!