As long as you don't cycle the key and run the pump you can just belled them like you'd normally do it. No special tools or procedure.

 

I'm thinking about adding this adaptor to my ST as well. Did you pull the outer and inner fairing to reach the riser bolts? You have slack in the wires for the offset? Thanks

 

No need to pull the fairing. Watched the Thrashin video below that showed the way to go. Lay on the floor and use a ratchet extension and universal attachment to reach the nuts. I wasn't able to get the torque wrench to click at 70ft lbs as recommended. But I think that was because of the flex in the universal joint. So I got it as tight as possible, or "Dad Tight."

There are four connections. Right and left hand controls. Throttle wire. And display. All reached, but not with enough slack to keep them attached to the plastic caddy. So I removed each from the caddy and placed a zip tie to keep the bundle secure. They fit well and the rubber boot easily fit into place. I might wrap each of the plastic connectors in self-bonding tape to keep them from rubbing on each other, but that's my OCD overthinking it and probably not necessary.

The clutch cable is tight. I'm going to ask the dealership tech if it's good to go as is. I work at a dealership and trust my techs. I just like working on my bike and learning about it. Part of the fun for me.

I knew I'd be posting this tip so I took a photo of the wire bundle after I removed the plastic caddy. The wires are inside the frame cavity with one zip tie to keep them together. The rubber boot goes over the cavity to protect the connections.

 

New, unopened grips from the HD Empire Collection.

$50 plus shipping. Retail is $150. I'll send you a shipping price to your address with a tracking # provided.

I ordered these as a package when I bought my bike, waited to change my bars, went with a different grip, and now I'm out of the return window.

Check fitment using this link and attached images of package label. Throttle by wire, not cable. Not heated.

 

I did just the Thrashin 6.5" risers with stock bars. While they say "Will work with stock brake and clutch" both are very tight. I had to loosen the banjo fitting on the brake line to roll the fitting. Also clutch cable is maxed out. I'm going to have the dealer install a +2 on both the brake and clutch upper at first service.

 

School me up on "+2." Is that a less expensive option to just add 2 inches instead of a cable replacement?

The Roadglide adapter gave me height and pullback. With the high bend bar it's exactly where I wanted the reach. The 6.5 riser alone wasn't enough pullback in my case. But the adapter makes the master cylinder 2 inches from the bar. Insert cursing here.

 

I believe it means the cables are replaced but they are +2” in length over stock OEM length.

 

+2 over the stock length. Both the clutch cable and front brake lines are a two pieces. The brake line from the lever to a splitter under the lower triple tree. You only need to replace the upper part of that brake line with a line 2" longer. The upper brake line comes in 1" increments over stock I believe. Same with the clutch cable that comes in two pieces. Just disconnect at the junction attached to the frame rail and replace just he upper portion of that cable.

It's one on the things Harley got right on these bikes is the ability to lengthen cables easily. Lol

 

That's pretty neat and tidy. Certainly looks better than with the plastic caddy there. I might remove mine as it makes it a real pain in the *** to get all the wiring into the neck and the rubber boot properly in place

 

As an administrative hearing officer I've learned that just because a lawyer says it doesn't make it right. Likewise, in some cases, just because it came like that stock doesn't make it right. Especially when the MoCo factors cost effectiveness and govt regulation constraints.