Everything Low Rider ST Thread
#551
Installed Thrashin RoadGlide adapter pullback with stock riser. 2 inches up and 1.5 back. Thrashin High Bend bar. Rolled them back to comfortable reach.
I used the service manual and got 90% in my garage. Thrashin said no extra brake line. They're wrong. 2 inches short. I'll take it to the dealership for the brake line and fluid. Service manual says computer adjustment needed for ABS and brake fluid fill.
More lessons learned posted soon.
I used the service manual and got 90% in my garage. Thrashin said no extra brake line. They're wrong. 2 inches short. I'll take it to the dealership for the brake line and fluid. Service manual says computer adjustment needed for ABS and brake fluid fill.
More lessons learned posted soon.
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Old Ranger (01-22-2024)
#552
Installed Thrashin RoadGlide adapter pullback with stock riser. 2 inches up and 1.5 back. Thrashin High Bend bar. Rolled them back to comfortable reach.
I used the service manual and got 90% in my garage. Thrashin said no extra brake line. They're wrong. 2 inches short. I'll take it to the dealership for the brake line and fluid. Service manual says computer adjustment needed for ABS and brake fluid fill.
More lessons learned posted soon.
I used the service manual and got 90% in my garage. Thrashin said no extra brake line. They're wrong. 2 inches short. I'll take it to the dealership for the brake line and fluid. Service manual says computer adjustment needed for ABS and brake fluid fill.
More lessons learned posted soon.
I'm thinking about adding this adaptor to my ST as well. Did you pull the outer and inner fairing to reach the riser bolts? You have slack in the wires for the offset? Thanks
#553
There are four connections. Right and left hand controls. Throttle wire. And display. All reached, but not with enough slack to keep them attached to the plastic caddy. So I removed each from the caddy and placed a zip tie to keep the bundle secure. They fit well and the rubber boot easily fit into place. I might wrap each of the plastic connectors in self-bonding tape to keep them from rubbing on each other, but that's my OCD overthinking it and probably not necessary.
The clutch cable is tight. I'm going to ask the dealership tech if it's good to go as is. I work at a dealership and trust my techs. I just like working on my bike and learning about it. Part of the fun for me.
I knew I'd be posting this tip so I took a photo of the wire bundle after I removed the plastic caddy. The wires are inside the frame cavity with one zip tie to keep them together. The rubber boot goes over the cavity to protect the connections.
Last edited by Lightyear68; 01-23-2024 at 06:17 AM.
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JakeC7R (01-24-2024),
Junkyard Dog (01-23-2024)
#554
New, unopened grips from the HD Empire Collection.
$50 plus shipping. Retail is $150. I'll send you a shipping price to your address with a tracking # provided.
I ordered these as a package when I bought my bike, waited to change my bars, went with a different grip, and now I'm out of the return window.
Check fitment using this link and attached images of package label. Throttle by wire, not cable. Not heated.
$50 plus shipping. Retail is $150. I'll send you a shipping price to your address with a tracking # provided.
I ordered these as a package when I bought my bike, waited to change my bars, went with a different grip, and now I'm out of the return window.
Check fitment using this link and attached images of package label. Throttle by wire, not cable. Not heated.
#555
No need to pull the fairing. Watched the Thrashin video below that showed the way to go. Lay on the floor and use a ratchet extension and universal attachment to reach the nuts. I wasn't able to get the torque wrench to click at 70ft lbs as recommended. But I think that was because of the flex in the universal joint. So I got it as tight as possible, or "Dad Tight."
There are four connections. Right and left hand controls. Throttle wire. And display. All reached, but not with enough slack to keep them attached to the plastic caddy. So I removed each from the caddy and placed a zip tie to keep the bundle secure. They fit well and the rubber boot easily fit into place. I might wrap each of the plastic connectors in self-bonding tape to keep them from rubbing on each other, but that's my OCD overthinking it and probably not necessary.
The clutch cable is tight. I'm going to ask the dealership tech if it's good to go as is. I work at a dealership and trust my techs. I just like working on my bike and learning about it. Part of the fun for me.
I knew I'd be posting this tip so I took a photo of the wire bundle after I removed the plastic caddy. The wires are inside the frame cavity with one zip tie to keep them together. The rubber boot goes over the cavity to protect the connections.
There are four connections. Right and left hand controls. Throttle wire. And display. All reached, but not with enough slack to keep them attached to the plastic caddy. So I removed each from the caddy and placed a zip tie to keep the bundle secure. They fit well and the rubber boot easily fit into place. I might wrap each of the plastic connectors in self-bonding tape to keep them from rubbing on each other, but that's my OCD overthinking it and probably not necessary.
The clutch cable is tight. I'm going to ask the dealership tech if it's good to go as is. I work at a dealership and trust my techs. I just like working on my bike and learning about it. Part of the fun for me.
I knew I'd be posting this tip so I took a photo of the wire bundle after I removed the plastic caddy. The wires are inside the frame cavity with one zip tie to keep them together. The rubber boot goes over the cavity to protect the connections.
#556
I did just the Thrashin 6.5" risers with stock bars. While they say "Will work with stock brake and clutch" both are very tight. I had to loosen the banjo fitting on the brake line to roll the fitting. Also clutch cable is maxed out. I'm going to have the dealer install a +2 on both the brake and clutch upper at first service.
The Roadglide adapter gave me height and pullback. With the high bend bar it's exactly where I wanted the reach. The 6.5 riser alone wasn't enough pullback in my case. But the adapter makes the master cylinder 2 inches from the bar. Insert cursing here.
Last edited by Lightyear68; 01-23-2024 at 11:52 AM.
#557
School me up on "+2." Is that a less expensive option to just add 2 inches instead of a cable replacement?
The Roadglide adapter gave me height and pullback. With the high bend bar it's exactly where I wanted the reach. The 6.5 riser alone wasn't enough pullback in my case. But the adapter makes the master cylinder 2 inches from the bar. Insert cursing here.
The Roadglide adapter gave me height and pullback. With the high bend bar it's exactly where I wanted the reach. The 6.5 riser alone wasn't enough pullback in my case. But the adapter makes the master cylinder 2 inches from the bar. Insert cursing here.
I believe it means the cables are replaced but they are +2” in length over stock OEM length.
The following 2 users liked this post by Junkyard Dog:
Calif Fat Bob (01-23-2024),
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#558
It's one on the things Harley got right on these bikes is the ability to lengthen cables easily. Lol
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#559
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Lightyear68 (01-24-2024)
#560