All those clutch plates can have some additional drag. Do you have the new clutch ramps that open the the clutch plates further? I'm going to give those a try (kit #37000376).

I still use the Amsoil dirt bike transmission fluid in the primary. I get what seems like zero clutch wear and great clutch feel with that.

 

I don't remember having this issue last year with the stock clutch but my build date is 10/19 so do not have the new ramp, this mod slipped my mind.
I'll order that new ramp assembly and try it with the Formula+ already in there.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Fuel Moto recommended below as the best option to avoid drag which they have seen on dyno with other oils otherwise

“Primary Fluid – Belray or HD Conventional Fluid (Clutch will slip with synthetic fluid)”

 

I’m going to leave the HD Formula+ oil in there and change to the 21 degree clutch ramp.

 

Just finished my first ride with the 21 degree clutch release ramps. Much better for the Rekluse clutch pack. I was able to move in my adjustable lever some, so I don't notice any increase in effort. I measured about .085" of release travel with the new ramps.

I had installed the Baker ramps and throw-out bearing when I put in the Baker 7 speed transmission. They have 18 degree ramps which was not enough in my case. They are intended for heavy-duty clutches with fewer plates and heavy springs.

 

That's good news, I have the new 21 degree ramp, just did not install yet.

 

Hello Hulkss

I have also installed a Rekluse Torque Drive on my 2019 Sport Glide and have about 1500 miles on the clutch. The bike is currently at stage 2 with a Woods 22X cam. I installed the clutch for the FM 124 CI kit I have sitting in my garage. Shifting up with the Rekluse clutch the transmission engages smoothly, especially putting a slight preload on the lever. Shifting down is also smooth especially if I blip the throttle to synchronize to the road speed.

The issue I am having is that shifting into neutral is very hard to find when stopped. I have used Formula 1, Amsoil dirt bike oil (the one you use) and currently using Mobil Synthetic 4T Racing 10-40 oil (clutch does not slip). I have even turned the clutch adjustment screw out only ½ a turn to try to get the plates to separate further. Even with all that, there is no change in the difficulty finding neutral when stopped.

With the stock clutch, on startup, I would pull in the clutch 3 times and roll the bike back. The majority of the time the transmission would engage into first gear without a clunk or just a slight clunk. With the Rekluse, no matter what I do, there is a huge clunk going into first gear which sound like I am tearing up the transmission. It does this with the primary oil hot or cold.

I am thinking of installing the HD ramp (kit #37000376) you have on your bike to see if it separates the clutch further to solve my issue. Now, By installing this ramp, wont that bring the friction zone further away from the handlebar? I have the Ricks adjustable levers and can probably set it to bring the friction zone further back towards the handle bar. By bringing the friction zone further back, wont that negate the impact of this ramp?

Overall, I like the Rekluse clutch as the engagement during roll off is very smooth and the cutch is quiet. If, I could just solve my issue the clutch would be great.

As a side note, I called Rekluse to discuss the issue and the technician offered to send me thinner steel plates to see if that would solve the issue. Upon receiving the plates I noticed that the Bill of Materials states they are (Qty13) - 0.040”and (Qty 1) - 0.065”, which are the same thickness as the ones that were in the box (Per the Bill of Materials) when I purchased the clutch. I am not going to remove the outer primary and install these plates to get the same result!

 

Stock ramps are 19 degrees. Tan(21)/Tan(19)= 1.115

So, if you keep the hand lever friction zone location the same (lever pull distance the same), the new ramps will open the clutch plates 11.5% more.

 

Where do you set your clutch adjustment screw?
I have mine at 3/4 turn out right now.

 

I don't think it matters much within the range specified in the manual. If you turn the pushrod screw out, you will use the upper part of the ramps. If you turn it in, you will use the lower part of the ramps. If the ramps are a constant angle over the operating range there is no difference.

When you set the clutch cable free play the ramps are rotated to take up the excess push rod free-play regardless of the pushrod screw setting.

I set mine at 1/2 turn out now that the clutch is run-in. As the clutch wears the free play is reduced.