How can you tell which is the low and the loud one?
There's not a "low" and "loud" volume, there's a "low" and "high" tone. You can tell them apart because the low tone horn has a "335Hz" printed on it, and the high tone one has "435Hz" printed on it.
I just installed the 335 on my Fat Bob and holy crap, is it loud. Exactly what you want a horn to be, and a big improvement over the stock horn.
It was not 100% plug-and-play like the picture in the service manual shows; the new horn comes attached to a bracket that you can't use on the Harley because the Harley's bracket serves two purposes, it holds the electrical box to the frame and it holds the horn. So the bracket that the horn is attached to had to be swapped for the bracket that Harley supplied, but that's a simple one-nut modification.
Thanks again Hulkss for pointing out the exact product link for what would work, and even supplying the service manual picture so people could see how simple it is, and for pointing me to how to get two horns for $20 instead of one "Harley Loud Horn" for $50.
Last edited by FatBob2018; 05-15-2020 at 05:31 PM.
There's not a "low" and "loud" volume, there's a "low" and "high" tone. You can tell them apart because the low tone horn has a "335Hz" printed on it, and the high tone one has (I think) "445Hz" printed on it.
I just installed the 335 on my Fat Bob and holy crap, is it loud. Exactly what you want a horn to be, and a big improvement over the stock horn.
It was not 100% plug-and-play like the picture in the service manual shows; the new horn comes attached to a bracket that you can't use on the Harley because the Harley's bracket serves two purposes, it holds the electrical box to the frame and it holds the horn. So the bracket that the horn is attached to had to be swapped for the bracket that Harley supplied, but that's a simple one-nut modification.
Thanks again Hulkss for pointing out the exact product link for what would work, and even supplying the service manual picture so people could see how simple it is, and for pointing me to how to get two horns for $20 instead of one "Harley Loud Horn" for $50.
To me the real difference in the horn designations was that one horn said “HT” and one said “LT”. But that’s just me. l
I put in the new H-D oil pump kit P/N 62400247 for M-8 engines built before May 22, 2019. Attached is the Technical Tip Bulletin TT466 from H-D.
Here's a few tips for guaranteeing a perfect restart of your engine after opening the cam chest.
1. If putting in new lifters, I fill them with oil as shown in the video below. This precludes starting with empty tappets. I use a Mityvac hand pump on the vacuum jar. Be sure to let the lifters bleed down (on the cam base circle) when you adjust push rods or install rocker arms. You can make this vacuum fill tool yourself with an old canning jar and a valve stem. Just put the lifters in carefully.
2. After the cam cover is on the engine, pour a cup of oil into the cam chest through the lifter holes before you set the lifters in place. This will help prime the oil pump scavenge element.
3. Just before you fire the engine, leave out the left side spark plugs, the BATTERY GROUND CABLE DISCONNECTED, and the main fuse still removed. Remove the the oil pressure switch and connect a mechanical pressure gauge. Then attach a remote starter switch to the starter solenoid and starter battery cable post (see pic below). Be sure you have not grounded the starter cable post. Now connect the battery ground cable (leave the main fuse out). With the transmission in neutral crank the engine about 5 seconds or so using the remote switch (you can leave the handle bar switches off). There will be no spark, no fuel injected, and no DTC's set. The engine will turn easy with no compression load (missing spark plugs). Repeat until you get good oil pressure. You can see I got nearly 35 psi just cranking the bike with cold oil after the pump primed itself.
4. Now disconnect the battery ground and remove the remote starter cable. Put the pressure switch back in place and finish up your work on the bike. Put the main fuse in last.
Some will say this procedure is not needed. It isn't, however, if you ever hear your engine start with dry tappets and no oil pressure for ten seconds or more you may not want to do that again.
This interests me. How do I determine when my engine was built? My bike was built in late June 2019, but I don’t know about the engine.
If you call H-D customer service they may be able to determine the date from the engine number on the left side below the cylinders.
I just assumed my engine was built on a date before and close to the bike assembly date.
I think I missed something :
It is a 114 but you are using a 107 stock cleaner assembly ?
I wanted to change the oval thing but I always end up with something too large in terms of leg clearance or something I don't like esthetically speaking.
I really like the 107 round assembly but I was worried about its capacity for a 114 Stage I engine.
I think I missed something :
It is a 114 but you are using a 107 stock cleaner assembly ?
I wanted to change the oval thing but I always end up with something too large in terms of leg clearance or something I don't like esthetically speaking.
I really like the 107 round assembly but I was worried about its capacity for a 114 Stage I engine.
It uses the stock 107 round cover and SE parts inside, look here: Air Intake
It uses the stock 107 round cover and SE parts inside, look here: Air Intake
Owh thanks !
I get it.
Why did you changed the intake manifold ?
It was ''just'' to have an aluminium one while you were here of is it mandatory on a 114 engine ?
05-15-2020, 05:20 PM
l
