The gauge should work, but you will likely need to reconfigure the connectors. As for removing the console from the tank, there is a bracket welded to the tank uder there that would look pretty bad exposed.
I was thinking of modding the stock console or building a replacement one. You had a pic of a console with an ignition switch and gauge, what did that come off of?
I was thinking of modding the stock console or building a replacement one. You had a pic of a console with an ignition switch and gauge, what did that come off of?
Dyna Street Bob. I printed an adapter for that to hold a little gauge, and also one below it to mount a switch. I want to move my gauges also and am trying to figure out what to do for a console. I don't really like the block of plates and don't have a desire to add more. I'd love to find a smooth console, I wonder if we could make a Softail Blackline console fit, like the one in the pic.
Dyna Street Bob. I printed an adapter for that to hold a little gauge, and also one below it to mount a switch. I want to move my gauges also and am trying to figure out what to do for a console. I don't really like the block of plates and don't have a desire to add more. I'd love to find a smooth console, I wonder if we could make a Softail Blackline console fit, like the one in the pic.
"Printed" - assuming 3d printer. What filament are you using? PLA disintegrates in sunlight after a while, doesn't it? You using ABS?
I picked up a FuelMoto “enhanced” Ventilator AC. Has a much larger filter area then stock and retains the stock cover, which I think I am liking better then my current heavy breather. Just drilled and tapped for external venting. Going to go a different direction then I’ve done in the past. Filling the passages with Permatex Ultra Black RTV instead of my usual tapping and screwing a set screw into the vent. Probably a little safer. I know there’s next to no way a set screw with red loctite can work it’s way loose, but I figure, there’s also equally no way the permatex can either, and if it did, it’s not going to tear up the valves or pistons. And it’s a hell of a lot easier! Lol. Will let the loctite on the barbs, and the permatex in the passages set for 24 hrs and will mount it up tomorrow.
@mchad, how much did the Ohlins mono shock lift the back end. Not worried due to my height and with a 32" inseam I have plenty of room, more on the looks of the rear tire gap.
Digging a little deeper into a gauge move. Pulled the tank trim up to see what kind of wiring slack there is. My new plan is to just move the speedo to in the fairing and move the tach to the the forward spot. The wiring seems long enough to be moved without any work except for one shared jumper wire. If both gauges get moved probably wouldn’t have to do anything extra but to split the gauges I’m gonna have to splice in some extra. Anybody know off hand what the wire is or have a service manual handy?I’m guessing it’s a acc power or something.
@mchad, how much did the Ohlins mono shock lift the back end. Not worried due to my height and with a 32" inseam I have plenty of room, more on the looks of the rear tire gap.
About an inch to an inch and a half.
i took this photo at OldMike’s request to see the height - if it helps.
Im excited to get mine later this year! Trading my bob in for it! Haha i might have missed it somewhere but which Ohlins shock did you go with? The 502 or 504?
09-21-2019 | 07:51 AM
