What did you do to your 18+ softail today?
#6491
#6492
Thanks. The ride quality seems quite similar to stock to me, but I'm a real lightweight at only 135 lbs so I don't compress the suspension much at all even with the preload at its lowest setting.
The remote preload adjuster makes getting the shock in and out a little more complicated but nothing major. Just a couple other things to unbolt.
I opted to buy the Kodlin shock compressor tool which made that part of the job very easy.
Having a second set of hands available makes re and re of the shock a little easier but it's certainly doable on your own.
Hope that helps, let me know if you have further questions.
The remote preload adjuster makes getting the shock in and out a little more complicated but nothing major. Just a couple other things to unbolt.
I opted to buy the Kodlin shock compressor tool which made that part of the job very easy.
Having a second set of hands available makes re and re of the shock a little easier but it's certainly doable on your own.
Hope that helps, let me know if you have further questions.
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StevieMac! (07-19-2024)
#6494
#6495
#6496
I'm trying to eliminate anything that might be causing the bike to track left.
The following users liked this post:
foxtrapper (07-20-2024)
#6497
That's all I've got. Your mileage may vary.
Last edited by Crazy; 07-20-2024 at 07:53 AM.
#6498
My LRS tracks straight when I take my hands off the bars.
I've had a few bikes that would track straight only when I shifted my weight or leaned to one side and canted the bike slightly or sat askew in the saddle. That would imply a weight imbalance.
Pulling one way or the other suggests wheel misalignment. If one fork leg is higher than the other that would definitely pull the steering. At speed motorcycles steer by gyroscopic effect. If you hold a bicycle wheel by its spindle and spin it and then tip the spindle downwards to the right the wheel will turn on its axis to the right. Tip it down to the left and it will turn to the left. that's how counter-steering works. Therefore if the left hand fork leg was sitting lower than the right hand leg, the front wheel would be canted to the left and the bike would continually try to pull in that direction.
Wheel alignment is a PITA unless you've got shaft drive when (assuming the factory have got it right) the rear wheel is fixed. There are so many variables that can skew it. And then it gets complicated by uneven tyre wear. Floating front spindles, where the spindle is held by clamps to the base of the fork leg can cause problems is the spindle isn't centered before tightening the clamps when refitting the front wheel. My KTM has a specific procedure for tightening the clamp bolts and pumping the forks to centralise the spindle to avoid this. If you get it wrong you can really feel it - you get a choppy ride and you have to sit cockeyed in the saddle to get it to ride straight.
I've had a few bikes that would track straight only when I shifted my weight or leaned to one side and canted the bike slightly or sat askew in the saddle. That would imply a weight imbalance.
Pulling one way or the other suggests wheel misalignment. If one fork leg is higher than the other that would definitely pull the steering. At speed motorcycles steer by gyroscopic effect. If you hold a bicycle wheel by its spindle and spin it and then tip the spindle downwards to the right the wheel will turn on its axis to the right. Tip it down to the left and it will turn to the left. that's how counter-steering works. Therefore if the left hand fork leg was sitting lower than the right hand leg, the front wheel would be canted to the left and the bike would continually try to pull in that direction.
Wheel alignment is a PITA unless you've got shaft drive when (assuming the factory have got it right) the rear wheel is fixed. There are so many variables that can skew it. And then it gets complicated by uneven tyre wear. Floating front spindles, where the spindle is held by clamps to the base of the fork leg can cause problems is the spindle isn't centered before tightening the clamps when refitting the front wheel. My KTM has a specific procedure for tightening the clamp bolts and pumping the forks to centralise the spindle to avoid this. If you get it wrong you can really feel it - you get a choppy ride and you have to sit cockeyed in the saddle to get it to ride straight.
#6500
You must be right then. A weight bias on the primary side. Though I still don't get it on my LRS. Or if I do it's barely noticeable (I'll have to check now when I next ride it..). Lighter bike maybe, with a lower centre of gravity because of the layout/seating position?