A word of caution about the 1FNGR clutch lever, they're known to snap clutch cables at times. Make sure if you do want to run it you upkeep the lubrication in the clutch line and keep an eye on the condition of the cable.

 

I've read that as well. The length of the lever shouldn't be an issue. Trying to think about why that would be the case. The only thing I can think of is the pivot point of the 1FNGR lever is in a different position than stock. This could put additional strain on the cable if the cable is not adjusted after the lever is installed. Anyone have ideas?

Zach

 

@b2inUT
question for you..

are you guys replacing the brackets that came on the Amazon fairing completely? Or are you using them in conjunction with the bungking brackets?

 

****. Sorry man. That’s the wrong one from Bung King.

https://www.bungking.com/2020-to-cur...iring-bracket/

this is the correct bracket. ****.

 

Well **** lol

I thought to ask because I found this video and it looks like this guy used the supplied brackets

* I just dug through the comments and it looks like he had to do some modifications that weren't mentioned in the video

 

These are the same brackets I used for the Old School Quarter Fairing.

 

Bungking was great, I'm sending back that one and ordered the T sport bracket yesterday. Looks like they've already got it ready to send out today

 

Thanks for the pics Mr. Rabies! Who makes these levers and where did you get them?

 

https://1fngr.com/

i bought mine off ebay. used but were only fitted. $180shpd.
https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/ sells them too. bought from them before for an older bike i had

 

Finally got my prototype Modular bars and OEM risers on the bike, and added the grommet to keep the brakeline on the nacelle. The stock clutch cable works without re-routing on these bars.
They are 8.5inch Rise. 1.25inch diameter.
Unfortunately I lost my heated grips during this, because I didn't realize the were some raised ridges inside of the bars I used to make the prototype.
The heater element got stuck in there and I couldnt pull it out, or push the grip all the way in. Lube wouldn't help it budget so I ended up having to rip the grip apart, and spent an hour and a half pulling the lodged parts out. I'm pretty upset but I'll be rebuilding these bars with HD made parts come winter time since I dont need heated grips much during the summer.
These bars are so much more comfortable it's not even funny. I can't believe I didn't just do this setup from the start. What a dumb idea to go with Motobars.
I also had to remove my Custom Dynamics magic strobes flasher, it has issues and after an hour of testing it seems like it doesnt work correctly anymore.
Guess I'll have to buy another one.
Nevermind, I reinstalled it to get support from CD about what was going on and it decided to work again. I don't know what happened.

The dealership sure did make a ****ing wiring mess for me to deal with later as well. They spliced my lines and soldered them, they removed the internal frame caddy that holds the neck connectors, and they didnt zip tie my under seat wires back. Which may be the reason why my magic strobes got damaged, it got squished or something and now a wire has issues.
I just should have had them do the foot control swaps and fix the rear lamp, and then told them to bring it back and let me fix the rest of it myself. What a pain in the ***, I'm going to have to replace my control modules now so I can get rid of the spliced wires, and now I need to go buy a caddy, and other parts they didnt put back.An
Anyways great bar design choice and I wish I had done this instead of those motobars. That was such a bad idea.

All thats left now:
Matching Upper Clutch line from Magnum Shielding.
13inch Wave Rotor and caliper relocation bracket, painted(gold with red bobbins) OEM rear brake disc.
Cam and Intake Manifold Swap
New mirrors
Painting other small parts