What did you do to your 18+ softail today?
#5441
I don't think they make it anymore.
I bought 2 of them so that I could have one that has a luggage rack on it and another that was stripped down for style.
#5442
#5443
Make sure you have the right kit to wire in the grips: 69201750
I used a wire stripper gun, and heat gun soldered butt joints.
You will have to take off the tank entirely.
You have to take off the horn from the battery box, but it does not detach so you'll have to deal with it fiddling around with that stupid accessories caddy.
Getting the caddy back up on the frame is an enormous pain in the ***.
I needed to use my Long Torx bits to get the stupid horn back onto the box.
It's a real pain in the *** trying to finagle around that stupid accessories box and get everything in there.
If your wires are pulled tight from taller risers, the frame wiring boot will not go back on properly.
The wiring for the grips is not that particularly long, it barely reaches with my setup. If you have anything taller than that you will have to use the extension. So splice the Y splitter cable longer if you want to accommodate longer bars. But because of this be prepared to have to waterproofing tape up the connectors.
I put dielectric grease on the surfaces of the female connectors(not pins), and electric tape wrapped the one that was hanging out under the headlamp nacelle.
I will probably go back and put the extension for the throttle side in, and then waterproof tape it up so that the actual connector is inside the frame, and the intermediate one that's exposed is waterproofed.
I used a wire stripper gun, and heat gun soldered butt joints.
You will have to take off the tank entirely.
You have to take off the horn from the battery box, but it does not detach so you'll have to deal with it fiddling around with that stupid accessories caddy.
Getting the caddy back up on the frame is an enormous pain in the ***.
I needed to use my Long Torx bits to get the stupid horn back onto the box.
It's a real pain in the *** trying to finagle around that stupid accessories box and get everything in there.
If your wires are pulled tight from taller risers, the frame wiring boot will not go back on properly.
The wiring for the grips is not that particularly long, it barely reaches with my setup. If you have anything taller than that you will have to use the extension. So splice the Y splitter cable longer if you want to accommodate longer bars. But because of this be prepared to have to waterproofing tape up the connectors.
I put dielectric grease on the surfaces of the female connectors(not pins), and electric tape wrapped the one that was hanging out under the headlamp nacelle.
I will probably go back and put the extension for the throttle side in, and then waterproof tape it up so that the actual connector is inside the frame, and the intermediate one that's exposed is waterproofed.
#5444
@FranBunnyFFXII - I just noticed the custom MoCo logo on your tank. That is awesome.
Congrats on the heated grips.
Congrats on the heated grips.
#5445
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Glenn Gorman (08-16-2023)
#5446
#5447
I personally went with the TRASK so I could also run a Temp dipstick, since there's no oil temp gauge on the bike itself.
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Old New Rider (08-16-2023)
#5448
#5449
Thanks to excellent user advice, I went with Trask CheckM8 and no longer have any oil misting on the throttle body butterfly plate.
This is my 1st Harley, but I've been in engines my whole life. Thinking about this a bit, a V-Twin with common crankpin and long stroke makes a huge pressure pulse in the crankcase compared to many cylinder automotive engines. Relying on the same small valve cover breather as cars produces a lot of oil carryover. Harley motors need a crankcase breather, and this is validated by using the Trask. Even though Trask is open, It could be a closed system per EPA regulations with a coalescer inbetween. Of course, that costs a few bucks more than a cheap valve cover breather, so there ya go.
This is my 1st Harley, but I've been in engines my whole life. Thinking about this a bit, a V-Twin with common crankpin and long stroke makes a huge pressure pulse in the crankcase compared to many cylinder automotive engines. Relying on the same small valve cover breather as cars produces a lot of oil carryover. Harley motors need a crankcase breather, and this is validated by using the Trask. Even though Trask is open, It could be a closed system per EPA regulations with a coalescer inbetween. Of course, that costs a few bucks more than a cheap valve cover breather, so there ya go.
#5450
Steve
The following 3 users liked this post by Monteman1971: