I did the same, with a ThunderMax tuner. Never dyno it. Keep us informed. Mines a 2020 with 114" motor, so I'll just deduct 3 to whatever you come up with.
:-) I do think that the ThunderMax is the best DIY option out there, but I also believe there is no substitute for a "proper" dyno tune from somebody who really knows what they are doing. Not just some shop with a dyno, but someone who has been tuning HDs for years and years, knows their dyno and their software inside and out and understands tuning strategies for all different kinds of riding.
There people are very hard to find. But I know one and will be seeing him first thing in the morning.
Didn't do anything to it today apart from ride around, but I did book it in to have my S&S475 cam, pushrods, lifters, tappet cuffs etc...all installed and then dyno tuned on Friday. I was going to do the work myself, but my tuning guy (who I trust implicitly) is only going to charge me for 2.5 hours labour for the install, so no reason not to go in that direction.
Come Friday we will see the results. I am hoping for around 130HP, 135TQ. 2022 Low Rider ST 117" M8.
That's good numbers I take it you are upgrading the injectors too?
Fitted my new backrest
Also fitted the Easy Brackets mounting kit (purchased from Finn Moto, Australia) so I can easily and quickly fit and remove my saddlebags
I'd been wanting to make this modification for a while, fed up with having oil in my air filter and on my right side cover as well as on the saddlebag, so I disassembled the Screaming Eagle filter support, made two 7 mm holes in the most appropriate place so I could pass the hoses on the other side...
hose routing, blank assembly...
filter support reassembly and hose installation...
passage behind the pushrods and evacuation under the engine (I know it's bad)...
Installed Oberon adjustable clutch and brake levers.
Oberon Levers are good stuff.
Just FYI, you might have to shim the brake lever because they dont seem to go far out enough to make sure the brake switch is completely depressed when you let go of the lever, so your brake lights may be stuck on or your cruise control might be kicked off at random times or wont activate.
I've had that problem with my levers for a while. I stuck some 3M tape between the lever and switch and it's like 95% resolved, I'll have to get some sugru and make a better shim later.
Oberon Levers are good stuff.
Just FYI, you might have to shim the brake lever because they dont seem to go far out enough to make sure the brake switch is completely depressed when you let go of the lever, so your brake lights may be stuck on or your cruise control might be kicked off at random times or wont activate.
I've had that problem with my levers for a while. I stuck some 3M tape between the lever and switch and it's like 95% resolved, I'll have to get some sugru and make a better shim later.
Thanks for the info. So far all is good, although I can't index the clutch lever too far in or the micro switch for the starting in gear interlock won't activate. Mainly wanted it for my brake hand as it has reduced strength from an old injury.
Thanks for the info. So far all is good, although I can't index the clutch lever too far in or the micro switch for the starting in gear interlock won't activate. Mainly wanted it for my brake hand as it has reduced strength from an old injury.
Yeah, I got fibro and I'm a woman which means I have really low grip strength. I couldn't get a proper grab on the brake and operating the clutch was a pain in the ***.
Oberon levers let me bring things back, and now I can get a real good grip on the lever and operate the clutch well enough to be usuable.
I'm going to install a Mueller power clutch to make things even easier soon.
Kinda wish HD had this stuff from the start though.
06-08-2023, 04:18 PM
