Villain 2 Hero is a great t-sport fairing at great price.
Looks exactly like the Amazon one I had, same brackets and shape (ridges on top, hidden behind windshield).
I'm curious how many of these are coming from the same factory and just rebranded by these companies? If this one fit better than the one I had, it would be worth every penny because I do think it looks nice
Looks exactly like the Amazon one I had, same brackets and shape (ridges on top, hidden behind windshield).
I'm curious how many of these are coming from the same factory and just rebranded by these companies? If this one fit better than the one I had, it would be worth every penny because I do think it looks nice
the Amazon is plastic no ? The villain 2 hero is fiberglass. The jd custom’s is fiberglass but very pricey. There is many to choose from, imzz , garage moto to name a few. Amazon krator is junk. All t-sport’s are not created equal.
Last edited by Durham man; 05-11-2023 at 09:54 AM.
the Amazon is plastic no ? The villain 2 hero is fiberglass. The jd custom’s is fiberglass but very pricey. There is many to choose from, imzz , garage moto to name a few. Amazon krator is junk. All t-sport’s are not created equal.
Good catch, yeah the Amazon one is plastic.
Well I think I'll just have to sit back and think on it some more. I like the fairing, but the only reason I tried it is because I knew it was only going to be $130 all in (with the headlight relocation bracket). Right now I just don't think it's worth it to me to spend another $200-500 on it.
Open question, is there any consensus on which riser bushings are "best" for our bikes?
@Durham man And since it sounds like I'm getting your old 1" riser spacer, were you able to find longer bolts easily?
10K service on Rayearth today, Plus Feuling Short Sump plug install.
Went for a 12.5 mile ride to get everything warm and toasted, pulled the oil drain plug, and then used my 450F setting on my heat gun for 2 minutes on the sump plug port and the stock plug came right out.
Getting a feel for the new sump plug was really weird, so I used my torque wrench at 5ft lbs and 6ft lbs, and then turned the plug lightly afterwards to till it "stopped" with my normal ratchet. I didnt exactly put much effort into it but there's a few threads showing so It's in there.
Pulling the stock plug out there was a surprising amount of oil, and it kept bleeding out oil everytime I cleaned up the plug port. I waited till it stopped for a few seconds and looked dry and then installed the short plug.
A lot of crap to do for 10K service too. Also DO NOT TRUST THE ****ING MANUAL for the battery bolt torque. The terminals on my battery are all pulled up and sorta crushed. 8ft lbs is way way too ****ing much for the battery I have. So if you have aftermarket, snug it, and then turn it a slight bit more. Luckly the battery is still usable, but I'm gonna get a replacement next year. Sometimes the manual is NOT correct.
I noticed very very tiny silvery and golden flakes in the oil filter, nothing big, just barely noticable and I wouldnt have even noticed them if I wasnt looking for them.
That permanent oil filter is REALLY nice for looking at what went through the system. Not shavings on either the oil drain plug, or the filter magnet. Just a bunch of microparticle gunk.
I still got some related stuff to do though like installing the Mueller Power Clutch, and some other nitpick bits, but the light is fading and i'll worry about it later.
Glad to have this service and sump plug swap done.
Now I can get back to riding with others and riding distance. Waiting for a nice hot day so I can break out the swimsuit and head to the lake. I haven't gone swimming since I was in the Army.
That spec came out of the HD manual? My '17 RGS manual said 60 in-lb (5 ft-lb) and I have used that with all M/C batteries with success. I would never use a ft-lb torque wrench for that light of torque. Don't trust 'em.
Well I think I'll just have to sit back and think on it some more. I like the fairing, but the only reason I tried it is because I knew it was only going to be $130 all in (with the headlight relocation bracket). Right now I just don't think it's worth it to me to spend another $200-500 on it.
Open question, is there any consensus on which riser bushings are "best" for our bikes?
@Durham man And since it sounds like I'm getting your old 1" riser spacer, were you able to find longer bolts easily?
do you still have your stock risers on your bike?
Last edited by Durham man; 05-11-2023 at 10:28 AM.
That spec came out of the HD manual? My '17 RGS manual said 60 in-lb (5 ft-lb) and I have used that with all M/C batteries with success. I would never use a ft-lb torque wrench for that light of torque. Don't trust 'em.
I'm a little surprised anybody actually using a torque spec on a battery terminal.
That spec came out of the HD manual? My '17 RGS manual said 60 in-lb (5 ft-lb) and I have used that with all M/C batteries with success. I would never use a ft-lb torque wrench for that light of torque. Don't trust 'em.
Yeap. I checked before hand in the table because I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right. I wanted to torque down the bolts properly and then a light coat of dieletric grease ontop so they wont corrode.
I don't want to have to worry about being stranded somewhere one day because the battery terminals came loose, and I dont have tools on hand to get at it. I'll probably buy a set of tools to get at the battery specifically for traveling.
Originally Posted by OldMike
I'm a little surprised anybody actually using a torque spec on a battery terminal.
I try to follow every torque spec that is listed. First time ever owning a vehicle, and I want it last. So I looked it up.
It's a learning experience.
Yeap. I checked before hand in the table because I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right. I wanted to torque down the bolts properly and then a light coat of dieletric grease ontop so they wont corrode.
I don't want to have to worry about being stranded somewhere one day because the battery terminals came loose, and I dont have tools on hand to get at it. I'll probably buy a set of tools to get at the battery specifically for traveling.
I try to follow every torque spec that is listed. First time ever owning a vehicle, and I want it last. So I looked it up.
It's a learning experience.
I get it, but how does on even get a torque wrench in that space, I never even thought to try.
I'm a little surprised anybody actually using a torque spec on a battery terminal.
I tend to ham-fist stuff without a torque wrench. Got tired of mucking up battery terminals. Hell, I even use a torque wrench on the oil filter! I use the Triumph spec of 80 in-lb.
I get it, but how does on even get a torque wrench in that space, I never even thought to try.
extension. You have to remove the battery caddy retainer to get to the positive terminal anyways.
The service interval calls for you to clean the terminals on the battery once a year, and I've ridden through a lot of storms and rain so I wanted to make sure the battery was serviced.
I just had to remove the caddy retainer and I could get at both terminals with a socket with an extension.
05-11-2023, 09:48 AM
