haha, Only in the wet season.
Once summer hits, we practically dont see rain till late september/early october.
Somtimes we get sunlight showers, a "Kitsune Wedding." It's actually very similar to Austria, just not as cold.
But what I see from the UK, damn is a sunny sky a rarity. :P

 

It's not really an "every single time" thing. Most people will only ever change the cam once or maybe twice in the life of their bike. Personally, I make a decision after a lot of research and then that is normally it. I only keep bikes for 3 or 4 years though.

If you use the proper tool, then there is very little chance of damaging anything, and the bearing is very cheap. So why not? Same reason I would use new bolts if I removed the heads.

 

I agree. If you are in the cam chest to do your first cam swap, you should fit better quality lifters. It's maybe not necessary, but does seem to be good practice. There are many reports of stock lifters failing. I wouldn't do it again if I then changed to another cam unless it was radically different. In which case I probably would, just because these kind of parts tend to get to know each other well over time.

 

Thanks for all the experienced advice. Much appreciated. I'm going with the 22XE cam, Torrington-Koyo bearing, stock (plate, pump, lifter guides).

Seems I better replace the lifters as well. I'm leaning towards the Comp V Thunder lifters for around $100. I can spend another $80 to $190 and get Wood, S&S, or Feuling. I don't see the reason though.

Any disagreement?

'22 FXLRS w/ Tab slip-ons, stock heavy breather.

 

Rigging up a bigger catch can. The little one fills up with water every 5 days.
Need one more fitting, also waiting on a FP4 so I can put the S&S manifold on thats staring me in the face.

 

So with some more miles with the BMF filter on it…I am noticing or more appropriately not noticing the size of the filter as much. But that may be partly from the fact that combined with the 14” bars my riding position has changed and I have compensated for it with my leg position/location while riding (knee on that side not always snuggled up to the tank) so not noticing as much. And the times I feel the need to snug both knees up to my tank that I notice it but barely cause I am paying more attention to the road and what’s around me and less attention to the filter cover pressed on my leg. So it has gotten more comfortable for me…plus after getting the bike Dyno’d…I am not changing it out for say the Arlen Ness one and then having to get it re-Dyno’d…my wallet is saying no way.
Maybe I’ll see next winter when I go to stage 2 and will need it re-Dyno’s then depending on how I feel after a full season of riding.

That said @FranBunnyFFXII I still stand by the recommendation I made previously. Think you’ll be happier with the Arlen Ness one when you are riding.

In terms of floorboards (have the Defiance ones) and brake pedal (with Softbrake brake pedal arm)…and I’m 5’9” in case this helps….I am having no issues with those 2 things. Foot fits on floorboard no problem and hasn’t changed my use of the break pedal.

 

I'm putting Feuling lifters in with a cam swap. Any thoughts on how important it is to pump the lifters full of oil before installing? Trying to decide if I need to buy a pump or special oil can tip.

 

Yes, pump them up with oil, it will save you listening to your bike rattling away while your brain screams at you, 'You forgot to tighten this....... turn it off, it's going to blow................why couldn't you just leave it alone' .

Just sort out a short piece of rubber or soft plastic pipe that fits over your oil can spout and hold that over the oil hole on the side of the lifter. That will be plenty good enough to get oil into them.

 

get he appropriate tip on a small oil pump can. it can take a little bit of oil to get he air out of the lifter. the more full, and with out air the better. Makes the pushrod adjustment more accurate and less noisy

 

I traded in my 2022 Low Rider S for a 2023 Heritage. Can’t wait for the accessories to come in!!!