Doing my cam homework for my '22 FXLRS. Stock heavy breather, TAB slip-ons. A couple questions -
What is the reason for replacing the cam bearing when you change cams?
I'm low RPM rider (usually 3-5K RPM) and love the sound of an aggressive lope at idle. Should I go 22XE or 30-30?
it’s not a bearing replacement, think of it as an upgrade from what’s in it.
I absolutely love the RS468 cam, it rips between 2k-5k and pulls hard. Paired it with a Feuling BA air cleaner, SPC big bore pipes, S&S intake manifold and a good tune using a PV4.
The stock cam bearing is probably made in China. I can’t speak for the 30-30 but the 22xE has a great lope for a mid range cam. Buy from fuel moto and they will send you a great map. If you go with power vision.
Advice I got from members, including pics, is stock cam bearing is load-marginal, is needles in a cage. Aftermarket bearings ditch the cage with more needles for more bearing surface area needed by the load from a higher lift cam.
This was my 92 fxr when I opened it up. The last of the torrington bearing’s
Originally Posted by Old New Rider
Advice I got from members, including pics, is stock cam bearing is load-marginal, is needles in a cage. Aftermarket bearings ditch the cage with more needles for more bearing surface area needed by the load from a higher lift cam.
Torrington b-138 was the good full cam bearing in the evo’s. The bean counters started using the cheap ina cam bearings in 92. I had a 92 fxr. The frame sticker had a build date of 7-91. After January 92 they went with the cheap ina bearings. It should be swapped out at every cam change.
Last edited by Durham man; 04-30-2023 at 10:45 AM.
The BMF is better by being a dry filter, but it is huge and does not play nice with floorboards. The Arlen Ness is 1/2 shorter. It may not seem like that much, but it is on the bike. I have a satin chrome Ventilator cover if you want one...and I have a BMF element as new also...
I don't think I responded to this in time, but I did want to say this pic and advice from @YHNYDad really made me re-think the air filter choice, and along with the 120th badge I got for my bike, I think the Arlen Ness filter is the better choice for me considering how much I ride twisty roads and hanging a bit off the bike.
Once the filter comes back in stock I'm gonna order it immediately and I'm not sure what I want to do with the Air Stinger intake I have sitting in the box.
Debating about selling it now.
I had my Roadking (best name ever for a Harley) torn down and I was watching Mecurm Autoauctions where they were praising 303 Graphene treatments. I thought to myself Hey, that would be great for my Rk. I later traded my Rk for a Sport Glide... and its the best harley I have ridden in my 61 years on a bike. I had read somewhere that the new softails were really miserable to clean well and that you had to take the bike apart to clean them. HAH! I thought... >I< use S200 the best bike cleaner ever. After getting it dry I thought that a coating with 303 would be a great ides since it worked so well on my RK. WRONG! Softails are a bear to clean properly and ever worse to use 303 on. If you want to rub smudges of Graphine off your bike for the next 2 weeks for the exercise I guess it would be a good idea but I would suggest DON'T TO IT! The stuff might be good for an automobile but it definitely isn't for a motorcycle.
Crap - I should have tried the Ness air filter element. I wasn't aware it was lower than the BMF. BMF was so tall I couldn't get my leg around it to the floorboard or brake pedal.
Crap - I should have tried the Ness air filter element. I wasn't aware it was lower than the BMF. BMF was so tall I couldn't get my leg around it to the floorboard or brake pedal.
That brought back a memory way back when I put a S&S Super B on my shovel. That thing stuck WAY out, I think I was getting bow-legged. I did get used to it. I still have that bike, its wearing a Super E now.
04-29-2023, 06:28 PM
