That was my first attempt, it's surprisingly easy on these things

 

i thought so too. Its surprisingly easy and quick to do. I laughed when i was done because all the youtube idiots make it seem like some sort of project. Hardest part was removing the tank. And thats stupid easy.

 

I'd like to install it once the Ness air filter is back in stock and I can order one.
I have to do a video reshoot of the unboxing stuff since I decided I'd rather not with the S&S Air Stinger for the upgrade and use it later.
But I'd like to get it installed before I do the cam swap so I don't have to worry about doing it while installing a new cam.

 

:-) The best place in the south of England. Boz at V-Twin Customs in Rye.

He only works with the Direct Link system from Techno Research, so you will need to buy a licence for your bike if you don't have one already, but in my opinion he is far and away the best HD tuner in the UK.

 

I replaced the Road Runner horn with a Denali SoundBomb Mini. A lot of work just to replace a horn; had to lift the gas tank and move other crap just to get to it.

 

whatever. Im just saying its stupid easy.

 

Today I replaced the mid controls on my Low Rider ST with a set of forward controls from Wunderkind customs in Germany. No pictures today, but I will get some tomorrow.

The forwards themselves are super high quality and very adjustable. Install was easy (my Makita cordless buzz gun made short work of those tricky control mounting bolts), apart from having to remove the existing rear brake line and master cylinder and line to the ABS unit, and replace it with parts that came in the forward control kit.

Getting the old brake line out is pain in the ***. If you read the service manual, they want you to remove the rear lighting caddy, the battery, battery tray and associated bits and pieces. You can certainly do it this way, but I managed to do it with only removing the rear lighting caddy. A bit of "persuasion" and I got it out and routed the new brake line, brake light switch etc..

Once done, I went out for a quick test ride only to discover that the gear shift peg was way too far forward, as was the rear brake peg. So I turned around immediately and got the wrenches out to make some adjustments. OK, much better.

But....I have the position of the forward pegs kind of in the middle position. They could be adjusted another inch forward or backwards. I think I would like them an inch more backwards as I only have short legs. (These forward controls would be great for those with long legs looking for more room) Sadly, it looks like if I move the right hand side back an inch, then the brake master cylinder and bracket will interfere with the heat shield of my S&S 2:1 pipe. So if I want to do this, I will need to cut some relief out of the exhaust heat shield. Certainly do-able, but not ideal. I guess this will all depend on what pipe your are using, but the S&S one is known for sticking out a bit - which is why you need to use the S&S brake pedal kit with it.

That said, I just remembered that the S&S brake pedal that I just removed came with 2 * 1/2" thick spacers to move it outboard a bit. Hmm....I might just be able to reuse these and not need to cut the heat shield. That would be ideal. I will probably need to get a couple of slightly longer bolts to make this work though. (Just went out to the garage to have a look and I think this will work perfectly!)

Anyway, bottom line is I got it done, but am not 100% happy with the way I have it set up yet. These forward controls are not the cheapest solution, but they are made really well and look the part. Very high quality as you would expect from being made in the Black Forest in Germany. They have a large range of adjustment for how far forward you want them - 10, 11 or 12" forward from the stock mid position controls on the Low Rider or Street Bob, or 2, 3 or 4 inches forward from standard Fat Bob or similar forward controls) and the angle and height of the brake and gear shift levers are pretty much infinitely adjustable..

I think all is going to be good. The plan for tomorrow is to move the right hand side outboard by 1.2" using the S&S spacers, and then to move both sides back by 1". Fingers crossed it works out. it probably won't as I think I will need to source some 1/2" longer frame to bracket bolts and I won't be able to get those from any local hardware store tomorrow. But now I have a plan....

 

Oh. And following on from this, I have a question.....

When I removed the mid control gear linkage, it left a hole in the middle of the outer primary cover. Fair enough, and Wunderkind supplied a nice billet plug with o-ring seals that fit perfectly. Looks like HD also supplies a plug in their kit.

BUT - isn't there now another open hole in the rear of the primary that is a possible pathway for water ingress or primary fluid leakage? Why aren't there 2 plugs supplied? Is this a non issue - i.e. the mid control linkage shaft passes through a closed passage between the inner and outer primary covers and the supplied bung is purely cosmetic?

Enquiring minds want to know!

 

There is a small gasket between the inner primary shaft tower and the outer primary shaft tower. Water ingress, dirt, etc. could get into the hole, but not inside the primary, nor could fluid leak out.

 

in for pics of these controls. the HD forwards are ok at best, and i wish i would have went something else instead, just couldnt find anything at he time