I got my bike booked in for dyno tuning next Tuesday.

With the stock HD air filter and plastic manifold, it made 109 HP and 125 TQ (S&S Superstreet 2:1 pipe with cat and dB reducer).

I'm not really expecting anything better than that with the S&S air filter and manifold, I just want it properly tuned in case it now runs lean. But hey....a few more HP would be pleasant, and S&S claims 3-5 more HP with their manifold. We shall see....

 

Fuel Moto also said one could expect 3-5hp with the new manifold, so I would think that's accurate. Kind of wish I'd just spent the extra money to get it while all my work was being done.

 

oddly enough, i have an S&S 55mm manifold in the mail, curious to see if the added ponies are noticed

 

I have an SE 55mm intake manifold that Im planning on installing here soon.
It looks like an enormous pain in the *** to do though. I want to get the Arlen Ness bigger air filter for the 114 ventilator to go with it.
The main reason I got the SE manifold though was just to replace the stock plastic one on the bike.

 

I've removed and re-installed several intakes on my various Harley's over the years. It's not that bad of a job. Take your time, use the air cleaner backing plate to align the intake and slowly tighten evenly. Should be fine.

Zach

 

It's really not that hard at all. But you do need to make sure you have the proper tool for the job, which is a long, ball ended 1/4" Allen key socket. I have a Snap-On one about 5" long. This is used to access the bolts on the manifold flanges to the head which are difficult to get to. You can use other approaches, such as a 1/4" all bit held in a small wrench, but the long ball-end Allen bit makes it much easier.

Other than that, take the tank off, remove the big bracket on the left hand side that holds the coil on. Remove the old air filter, remove the throttle body, unplug the injectors, remove two (T30?) bolts that hold the injectors in, wiggle them out and remove the fuel rail. Then undo the manifold bolts mentioned above and the old manifold should slide right out. Put the left hand side (rear from your perspective) manifold bolts back in lightly.

Swap the sealing flanges from the old to new manifold and the same for the MAF sensor. Slide the new manifold in with the slots on the flanges at the rear (seen from your perspective) and seat the slots in the flanges on the 2 manifold bolts you left in. Screw in the 2 remaining manifold bolts just lightly and tighten the other two by hand until all 4 are just snug by hand. Put the injectors back in, plug in the MAF sensor.

Fit the throttle body and the air filter backing plate. Snug the backing plate to the heads and the throttle body and only then use your long Allen key to tighten all 4 manifold flange bolts to the recommended torque (this is because you want the throttle body and air cleaner back plate in place to make sure the manifold is properly aligned, and the air cleaner back plate's attachment to the heads is an important part of this).

Then undo the air cleaner back plate bolts one by one, add a little loctite and torque them down to spec.

Done.

There is a good video on YouTube from S&S explaining the procedure. Just be aware that they use a Touring bike as a demonstrator and it is slightly different - hence the need to remove the coil bracket on the left hand side and to remove the injectors before you can get the old manifold out.

Other than that, it's 2 beer and one skinned knuckle procedure!

 

I'd be interested to know where you're getting it dyno'd?

 

Gave my trusty Scorcher its final send off, heads to the shop tomorrow for some new shoes (Shinko SR999).
Once I get some mileage on the tires I'll post up a review, not much info on them so far.

 

I STILL have never done a burnout on any bike I have owner
Can't say the same for cars

 

If you get the Ness filter, silicone the spacers onto to the filter the night before you install, makes it much easier to get everything lined up and threaded.