I did not do all this today, but finished and cranked it over today:
installed 64mm SE Extreme ported throttle body
swapped S&S 475 to S&S 540 cam
installed bigger 6.3g/s injectors
installed new Johnson Hylift 2313se lifters
installed stainless engine bolt kit (stock anodized bolts had to go)
installed reusable hi flo oil filter I had form old TC (eventually, I’ll probably buy an oil filter relocation kit to get the filter out in the air)
I ran into my problems, and must have readjusted pushrods 10 times. Bad lifter, pinched pushrod tube O-ring, trouble finding rocker arm sockets at one point, two stripped lifter cover bolts, etc. I was rushing up against a scheduled dyno tune 4.5 hours away first thing next morning, and ended up working late into night outside with not enough lighting. Got stressed and made some stupid mistakes. At one point, I thought maybe I screwed up TDC on rear cylinder and may have bent a valve. I was really stressed out. Bike sounded horrible and had bad oil leak. Had to cancel tune in middle of night and start over.
Bought the new lifters and things started going back together like they should. Did a compression test without disabling ACR’s to make sure valves were ok. Got 150 psi exactly front and back, so that was a big sigh of relief. Adjusted PR’s and just started it up - bike cranked up immediately and sounds pretty good for not being tuned yet. Got tune scheduled for Monday in Dallas with Dyno Difference. Hoping the 540 cam, ported TB, bigger injectors, and one of Ed’s tunes give me a nice power bump. Bike ran great before - just got it into my head what a cam designed for the 128” might do. Find out soon enough. Plus, the engine was built by previous owner and I had very little info on what exactly was done. Now I know and I know it will be tuned right. I have changed cams and heads several times on my old TC, but this became a much messier and longer project than I was expecting.
Not a very good pic, but shows some of the SS bolt kit.
I did not do all this today, but finished and cranked it over today:
installed 64mm SE Extreme ported throttle body
swapped S&S 475 to S&S 540 cam
installed bigger 6.3g/s injectors
installed new Johnson Hylift 2313se lifters
installed stainless engine bolt kit (stock anodized bolts had to go)
installed reusable hi flo oil filter I had form old TC (eventually, I’ll probably buy an oil filter relocation kit to get the filter out in the air)
I ran into my problems, and must have readjusted pushrods 10 times. Bad lifter, pinched pushrod tube O-ring, trouble finding rocker arm sockets at one point, two stripped lifter cover bolts, etc. I was rushing up against a scheduled dyno tune 4.5 hours away first thing next morning, and ended up working late into night outside with not enough lighting. Got stressed and made some stupid mistakes. At one point, I thought maybe I screwed up TDC on rear cylinder and may have bent a valve. I was really stressed out. Bike sounded horrible and had bad oil leak. Had to cancel tune in middle of night and start over.
Bought the new lifters and things started going back together like they should. Did a compression test without disabling ACR’s to make sure valves were ok. Got 150 psi exactly front and back, so that was a big sigh of relief. Adjusted PR’s and just started it up - bike cranked up immediately and sounds pretty good for not being tuned yet. Got tune scheduled for Monday in Dallas with Dyno Difference. Hoping the 540 cam, ported TB, bigger injectors, and one of Ed’s tunes give me a nice power bump. Bike ran great before - just got it into my head what a cam designed for the 128” might do. Find out soon enough. Plus, the engine was built by previous owner and I had very little info on what exactly was done. Now I know and I know it will be tuned right. I have changed cams and heads several times on my old TC, but this became a much messier and longer project than I was expecting.
Not a very good pic, but shows some of the SS bolt kit.
[QUOTE=MilkMan608;20587222]Looks great. Whose bolt kit did you choose?[/QUOTE
I went with Alloy Boltz - used them on past bike with no issues and more affordable than most. I almost went with 12pt, but spent enough recently, so stuck with the hex socket.
Replaced Screaming Eagle Tuner for Vance&Hines Fuelpak 3
2020 Lowrider 21K miles V&H slip ons, SE air cleaner V&H FuelPak3.
Replaced my Screaming Eagle Tuner with the Vance & Hines FP3. The SE tuner was throwing exhaust codes p0151h that I couldn't permanently delete. Kept returning even after replacing O2 sensor. Dealer said ignore it. V&H install was a snap. Did 150 mile ride and it's like a new motor. Idles smoother, not a hint of decel pop, and power all through the gears. In fact, I was so impressed, I may not do the AutoTune. But if I do and dont like it, I can simply reload the canned dyno map. Best add-on I've bought yet.
2020 Lowrider 21K miles V&H slip ons, SE air cleaner V&H FuelPak3.
Replaced my Screaming Eagle Tuner with the Vance & Hines FP3. The SE tuner was throwing exhaust codes p0151h that I couldn't permanently delete. Kept returning even after replacing O2 sensor. Dealer said ignore it. V&H install was a snap. Did 150 mile ride and it's like a new motor. Idles smoother, not a hint of decel pop, and power all through the gears. In fact, I was so impressed, I may not do the AutoTune. But if I do and dont like it, I can simply reload the canned dyno map. Best add-on I've bought yet.
Nice bike. I like the regular Low Rider better than the Low Rider S.
Added a Dark Custom Derby cover and then took a nice long leisurely ride. This has quickly become my favorite out of a long list of rides thru the years.
Added a Dark Custom Derby cover and then took a nice long leisurely ride. This has quickly become my favorite out of a long list of rides thru the years.
Unsolicited opinion here so apologies upfront but I think you should put the heat shields back on. The exposed interconnect between the headers and mufflers looks rather awkward like that.
2nd question, that windshield setup. That's a quick disconnect right the whole thing comes off and just leaves the dowels right?
I was debating about getting a different windshield setup. The one on my bike right now is actually warped, and I'm wondering if a different setup would be better.
Unsolicited opinion here so apologies upfront but I think you should put the heat shields back on. The exposed interconnect between the headers and mufflers looks rather awkward like that.
2nd question, that windshield setup. That's a quick disconnect right the whole thing comes off and just leaves the dowels right?
I was debating about getting a different windshield setup. The one on my bike right now is actually warped, and I'm wondering if a different setup would be better.
Yes just leaves the dowels. It's a nice clean setup and I only went 13" so doubt I'll ever be removing it as it's not tall at all.
Thanks but I'm good with as is as the mufflers themselves are way too nice to be covered up.
Added a Dark Custom Derby cover and then took a nice long leisurely ride. This has quickly become my favorite out of a long list of rides thru the years.
I've been thinking of a windshield and that looks good tinted. Can I ask how well does it do blocking the wind? How tall are you and do you get any buffering?
I've been thinking of a windshield and that looks good tinted. Can I ask how well does it do blocking the wind? How tall are you and do you get any buffering?
Thanks,
Steve
I'm 5'6" and it takes the wind off torso and works well. No buffeting that is bothersome for me. It's only 13"height but you can go on Memphis shades site as they offer a variety of heights just not in blacked out in taller heights for obvious reasons.
04-29-2022, 06:06 PM
