It's honestly not that hard, IMHO. The service manual will guide you through the process with a good amount of detail too, not to mention there are tons of threads here and YouTube videos.
But really, it's mostly basic hand tools. There are a few specialty tools like the sprocket locking tool, feeler gauges, and bolt cutters that are easily available, but not everyone has. And then of course, you'll need a cam bearing tool to remove/install a new bearing. If you want to reuse the stock pushrods, you will need to pull the rocker covers and the rocker assemblies, after you have removed the fuel tank in order to remove the rods from the top. And you'll want to make sure the cam you're choosing isn't higher lift than the OEM cam, or else you can end up creating a scenario where the valves and pistons make contact - that would be bad!
Adjustable rods are easier and save the hassle of going in through the top. The less areas you open up, the less areas can cause problems.
New lifters aren't a requirement, but if you should choose to reuse them, you will want to make sure the same lifter ends up in it's original location, and that it's oriented in the same direction. It's a general rule of this type of work that any moving part that is reused be installed in the exact location it came from, in the same orientation.
If you are patient, you can get everything for a reasonable price from Fuel Moto when they run a sale. IMHO, I would wait until funds allowed doing it all at once. That way you're starting fresh, and with higher quality components.
I noticed the linkage from the gear shifter to the transmission is different between my Heritage and a Standard. Is this simply to accommodate forward and mid controls or is there more to it than that?
I noticed the linkage from the gear shifter to the transmission is different between my Heritage and a Standard. Is this simply to accommodate forward and mid controls or is there more to it than that?
it’s just the difference in mid and fwd controls. Same goes for the FXLRS. The fwd kit gives the longer linkage, etc. and a plug for side cover to hide the unused mid shifter location.
It's honestly not that hard, IMHO. The service manual will guide you through the process with a good amount of detail too, not to mention there are tons of threads here and YouTube videos.
But really, it's mostly basic hand tools. There are a few specialty tools like the sprocket locking tool, feeler gauges, and bolt cutters that are easily available, but not everyone has. And then of course, you'll need a cam bearing tool to remove/install a new bearing. If you want to reuse the stock pushrods, you will need to pull the rocker covers and the rocker assemblies, after you have removed the fuel tank in order to remove the rods from the top. And you'll want to make sure the cam you're choosing isn't higher lift than the OEM cam, or else you can end up creating a scenario where the valves and pistons make contact - that would be bad!
Adjustable rods are easier and save the hassle of going in through the top. The less areas you open up, the less areas can cause problems.
New lifters aren't a requirement, but if you should choose to reuse them, you will want to make sure the same lifter ends up in it's original location, and that it's oriented in the same direction. It's a general rule of this type of work that any moving part that is reused be installed in the exact location it came from, in the same orientation.
If you are patient, you can get everything for a reasonable price from Fuel Moto when they run a sale. IMHO, I would wait until funds allowed doing it all at once. That way you're starting fresh, and with higher quality components.
Not yet, but eventually. This fall I plan to bring it to Fuel Moto for a 128" build. Not sure the exact details yet. For now, I hope to make it through this season without breaking the stock ramp. I didn't check the crank runout for just the bolt-in cam, but FM will during the 128" build.
I would do a comp ramp replacement ASAP. It's not difficult to do. You dont need to pull the clutch hub out at all. You just need a toolsteel comp ramp and a new compensator bolt.
And ofc new primary fluid.
Stage 1 bikes with **** pipes are blowing them up here and there. I'd suggest just doing it.
You can get one for 400$ shipped offa moonshine HD's site, and im sure Fuelmoto has options in stock too.
So my rear fender under the sissybar post on the left side suddenly developed a chip in the paint without explanation.
I didnt have many options and it was flaking up so I knew it was going to get much worse if I didnt do anything about it.
So I grabbed a Stiletto red touch up kit and tried my hand at doing a touch up on paint.
TBH it looks like **** but at least now my expensive *** paint job wont be severely damaged, to the point of needing an entire repaint.
Ill figure out later if I wanna get it properly repaired or if it doesnt really matter since I always have that tall *** sissy bar on my bike.
I first ran to the store and grabbed some auto primer and slightly sanded down the area and made a scab of primer for the area to make sure it wouldnt flake off even more.
It saved the chip from getting bigger, and then the touch up paint ended dissolving the primer out.
After some effort, I managed to get a good coat onto the chip sealing it up.
Then finally, beacuse the paint didnt match at all, I made it look like a little rectangle that is less conspicuous.
Its not great but at least the paint is preserved and sealed from further damage.
I just ordered Harley-matched paint at www.colorrite.com
It's a bit on the expensive side, but your paint looks really nice and it's probably worth it (if you can identify the Harley name for that base red color). They have small touch up kits to full aerosol cans, along with clear coat to match.
I just ordered Harley-matched paint at www.colorrite.com
It's a bit on the expensive side, but your paint looks really nice and it's probably worth it (if you can identify the Harley name for that base red color). They have small touch up kits to full aerosol cans, along with clear coat to match.
I can vouch for Colorrite, at least for stock paint. I needed to touch up a couple spots with Bonneville Salt Pearl. It comes with a base coat and a color coat, matched perfectly. I think I ordered the clear coat separately, can't remember. Anyway, it works great.
The Chroming of Rayearth has begun.
A few days ago I installed a chrome Horn Trigger and Chrome brake reservoir cap, along with silver torx screws. I had a set of chrome perch clamps but they ended up not fitting and got returned to the dealership. The parts guy said they'd fit but ended up not, so oh well. Ill figure out how to silver-ize them later.
Installed my Softbrake extended rear brake lever and Willie G brake pedal today. Chrome with Bullet Holes, and standard extended brake lever length from SoftBrake.
My rear brake is actually usable now. I was just unable to use my rear brake much because it was just so inaccessable for me. Too far back over the floorboard and too high up.
I couldnt get my foot onto the brake pedal to really use it.
I had used my rear brake so little that the rotor was slick, and I thought it was just weak when I first went for a ride with the new lever. After a few hard stops testing it, the brake pads started biting into the rotor and became usable.
Thats how unusable the rear brake was for me. And this fixed it perfectly. I can actually use the rear brake now.
It's now forward enough that it just barely overs over the tip of the floorboard, and its much lower so I can actually get the ball of my foot onto that pedal quickly.
I also tried to install my Oberon adjustable levers only to be stopped by the damn snap ring plier set I have not having a single attachment that can fit into the snap ring holes. Ill have to figure something out later to get them installed.
Last edited by FranBunnyFFXII; 02-01-2022 at 04:34 PM.
Reason: I cant spell worth a shit today.
Installed HD mustache engine guard. Like the look better than the regular version and just happy to have some protection for the bike.
Looks great, I recently put the chrome one on my Heritage and really happy with how it looks.
I also like how the bar has the footrest built in and not sticking out.
Suits the Heritage style much better than the standard bars.
Foot position is perfect & compfortable for me as well.
Last edited by BareKnuckle; 02-01-2022 at 09:14 PM.
I just ordered Harley-matched paint at www.colorrite.com
It's a bit on the expensive side, but your paint looks really nice and it's probably worth it (if you can identify the Harley name for that base red color). They have small touch up kits to full aerosol cans, along with clear coat to match.
Ill probably do something about it later when I can. But I have no idea what color that makes up the base coat, so Ill have a dealership figure out or something like that.
Because it's hidden by a sissybar right now I'm just concerned about having the damage repaired up in a relatively hard to notice way.
I'll give it a look later.
01-31-2022, 03:52 PM
