Did the 10,000 mile service on the Heritage. Once again that funny looking “drip catcher funnel” that’s supposed to catch the oil from the oil filter failed miserably, drizzling oil all over the bike and the floor. At least this time I didn’t kick the bike and call it every curse word ever invented.
Now I just curse the damn fool that decided that was a good location for the oil filter
Did the 10,000 mile service on the Heritage. Once again that funny looking “drip catcher funnel” that’s supposed to catch the oil from the oil filter failed miserably, drizzling oil all over the bike and the floor. At least this time I didn’t kick the bike and call it every curse word ever invented.
Now I just curse the damn fool that decided that was a good location for the oil filter
I just grab a sheet of aluminum foil from the kitchen before I head out to the garage. Makes a quick cheap flexible catch pan to go around the filter.
I just grab a sheet of aluminum foil from the kitchen before I head out to the garage. Makes a quick cheap flexible catch pan to go around the filter.
yep i use a peice of cereal box or pop can box aprox 6"wide fold in a v.....couple rags jammed undernieth. Never a drop on the rags....the oil filter catch drain and the nice big flat oil drain pan just don't work for me.
Well I am got my bike back from the shop and my 14" Factory 47 have been installed. I will get picts tomorrow but I will say my FLSB ride has completely changed. I always felt as if I was trying to fold my fat butt in half when I was riding. Now I am sitting upright, I am not reaching for the bars, my upper body is more relaxed my legs seem to be in a better position on my mini floorboards. The front end also feels more responsive.
Today, I had the dealership change out the rear tire at 10,265 miles. I figure that was pretty good mileage for a rear tire. I got to watch for a bit, while two mechanics spent a half hour (no lie) trying to reinstall the rear wheel on my Softail. Apparently, there are two spacers and the ABS sensor on the right side, and they don't want to fit. The more I see of this new Softail, the less impressed I am. I used to like Harley's engineering and ease of service. Not this bike.
Sure, I'm fortunate that I can afford to pay someone else to do my tire changes, but I'd like to know I COULD remove/install the rear wheel if I had to. If it's a two man job to install the rear wheel for two experienced technicians, there's something wrong here.
I also had them remove the passenger pegs for me,seeing as I've read so many horror stories on this forum about stripping our bolt heads and requiring heat guns and impact tools (not to mention I didn't have the requisite long T-45 bit). Of course, they came right out without issue. Oh yeah, I forgot to pick up some hole plugs to fill the holes where the passenger pegs were.
got to watch for a bit, while two mechanics spent a half hour (no lie) trying to reinstall the rear wheel on my Softail. Apparently, there are two spacers and the ABS sensor on the right side, and they don't want to fit.
Sure, I'm fortunate that I can afford to pay someone else to do my tire changes, but I'd like to know I COULD remove/install the rear wheel if I had to. If it's a two man job to install the rear wheel for two experienced technicians, there's something wrong here.
You were watching a couple of Twits at work. Reminds me why I change my own tires.
To install the rear wheel with the bike supported on a lift under the frame:
1. Install the the axle part way with the left side spacer in place. Be sure belt adjusters are backed off to allow a slack belt and the brake caliper is off.
2. Raise the tire/wheel on a scissors jack part way onto position. When close to the axle, put the belt on the pulley. Put in the right side outer spacer (between the caliper bracket and swing arm) before you block access to it.
3. Raise rear wheel fully to align with the swingarm and slide in the axle until it is into the right side wheel bearing but not sticking out.
4. Slip in the inner spacer or ABS sensor next to the wheel bearing on the right side while keeping the caliper bracket and outer spacer in place (from step 2).
5. Push the axle through and remove the jack from under the tire.
You were watching a couple of Twits at work. Reminds me why I change my own tires.
To install the rear wheel with the bike supported on a lift under the frame:
1. Install the the axle part way with the left side spacer in place. Be sure belt adjusters are backed off to allow a slack belt and the brake caliper is off.
2. Raise the tire/wheel on a scissors jack part way onto position. When close to the axle, put the belt on the pulley. Put in the right side outer spacer (between the caliper bracket and swing arm) before you block access to it.
3. Raise rear wheel fully to align with the swingarm and slide in the axle until it is into the right side wheel bearing but not sticking out.
4. Slip in the inner spacer or ABS sensor next to the wheel bearing on the right side while keeping the caliper bracket and outer spacer in place (from step 2).
5. Push the axle through and remove the jack from under the tire.
Easy if you know what you are doing.
Yeah, I think they try to make it look nearly impossible to scare me from trying to do it myself.
Today, I removed the reflectors from the front forks (well, the forks, I guess, since, you know, there's not "rear" fork); installed a rear fender bib; and installed a HD rigid, non-detachable sissy bar for carrying my backpack to school/work. Next, I want to remove that tail reflector. Any ideas on how to do that? I can't tell how it's attached to the fender. Also next: handlebars (z-bars), OR MS Road Warrior fairing; OR V&H Short Shots in black. I can't decide: all three mods will noticeably improve the ride. As I hate the hollywood bars, the wind on the highway (though I don't ride on the highway much), and hate the look of the exhaust (though it really won't add much to improve the ride). Thoughts or suggestions about what to do first?
08-03-2020, 05:10 PM
