What did you do to your 18+ softail today?
#1441
Finished one of the caps in a wrinkle finish and also made a 80° nipple, think I will go with the 80° since the tube is heading the right direction then.
Just got the news that the valves will not be out for delivery untill mid januari , at this time I can not complete the dipsticks since I have to machine
the alu body to accepte the valve before mounting it in the plastic dipstick.
Just got the news that the valves will not be out for delivery untill mid januari , at this time I can not complete the dipsticks since I have to machine
the alu body to accepte the valve before mounting it in the plastic dipstick.
#1442
Finished one of the caps in a wrinkle finish and also made a 80° nipple, think I will go with the 80° since the tube is heading the right direction then.
Just got the news that the valves will not be out for delivery untill mid januari , at this time I can not complete the dipsticks since I have to machine
the alu body to accepte the valve before mounting it in the plastic dipstick.
Just got the news that the valves will not be out for delivery untill mid januari , at this time I can not complete the dipsticks since I have to machine
the alu body to accepte the valve before mounting it in the plastic dipstick.
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MoneyFor (12-14-2019)
#1443
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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Actually the Sporty did not push much air at all during idle or cruising or decel. The only way we could get it to push any significant amount was when we revved it so high the valves were starting to float (bouncing off the rev limiter).
The Twin Cam pushes the most air, the M8 the 2nd most, but not nearly as much as the TC.
Here's a Report LINK explaining the results.
Below is a chart from the above link.
It is all a bit counter-intuitive. Below is an excerpt from the above link-
Even more surprising is the least amount of air is moved on all bikes while at cruising RPM. An informal survey shows that most people thought the most amount of air moves through the breathers at higher RPM, when, in fact, the most is at idle and zero throttle decel.
The opposite is what we discovered. The most amount of air is moved through the breathers at an idle, during hard acceleration and during deceleration. A visual of this can be seen in the Video below. The actual numbers are in the charts below.
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#1444
Today, I installed some goodies on my 2019 FXLR lowrider :
First, a chrome rigid OEM sissy bar (I had to enlarge holes to fit between rear fender and fender support, and not over fender support as HD designed it) code 52300503 : HD says it will not fit the FXLR, but it really does with minor modifications. When I want it, I do it
Then, a 14'' narrow ape from Burly Brand, 1'' dia : I had to modify it to fit, but the result is perfect. I cut one half inch on the right hand side, cut the "notches" to fit the electric throttle, enlarged the cable holes and with a lot patience and some wd40, all cables are in and the bar is doing well! I did not want the 1.25'' Harley ape, too fat for that sleek front end I want to have... I had the cable extensions from HD, trouble free, no DTCs after fitment.
The brake line was absolutely no trouble : I ordered a longer upper hose from a local racing parts supplier (10mm x 1mm thread + inverted double flare one end, 10mm dia banjo other end). To bleed the brake line was easy : with a big surgical seringe and silicone tube (from an aquarium air pump!), I send the DOT thru the bleeder screw on the caliper up to the brake fluid reservoir. As long as you don't turn ignition switch on, there will be no air in the ABS module/lines/pump etc. Took me less than one hour to have alle the braking system ready, no need for the digital technician nor any exotic tools.
The only missing part is now the exxxxxtra-loooong clutch cable I ordered on e(vil)Bay: it should come here within next week (35 USD on e-bay Vs 130+ € at my local stealer).
I will try to post some pics later if somebody is interested.
First, a chrome rigid OEM sissy bar (I had to enlarge holes to fit between rear fender and fender support, and not over fender support as HD designed it) code 52300503 : HD says it will not fit the FXLR, but it really does with minor modifications. When I want it, I do it
Then, a 14'' narrow ape from Burly Brand, 1'' dia : I had to modify it to fit, but the result is perfect. I cut one half inch on the right hand side, cut the "notches" to fit the electric throttle, enlarged the cable holes and with a lot patience and some wd40, all cables are in and the bar is doing well! I did not want the 1.25'' Harley ape, too fat for that sleek front end I want to have... I had the cable extensions from HD, trouble free, no DTCs after fitment.
The brake line was absolutely no trouble : I ordered a longer upper hose from a local racing parts supplier (10mm x 1mm thread + inverted double flare one end, 10mm dia banjo other end). To bleed the brake line was easy : with a big surgical seringe and silicone tube (from an aquarium air pump!), I send the DOT thru the bleeder screw on the caliper up to the brake fluid reservoir. As long as you don't turn ignition switch on, there will be no air in the ABS module/lines/pump etc. Took me less than one hour to have alle the braking system ready, no need for the digital technician nor any exotic tools.
The only missing part is now the exxxxxtra-loooong clutch cable I ordered on e(vil)Bay: it should come here within next week (35 USD on e-bay Vs 130+ € at my local stealer).
I will try to post some pics later if somebody is interested.
#1445
Actually the Sporty did not push much air at all during idle or cruising or decel. The only way we could get it to push any significant amount was when we revved it so high the valves were starting to float (bouncing off the rev limiter).
Even more surprising is the least amount of air is moved on all bikes while at cruising RPM. An informal survey shows that most people thought the most amount of air moves through the breathers at higher RPM, when, in fact, the most is at idle and zero throttle decel.
The opposite is what we discovered. The most amount of air is moved through the breathers at an idle, during hard acceleration and during deceleration. A visual of this can be seen in the Video below. The actual numbers are in the charts below.
Even more surprising is the least amount of air is moved on all bikes while at cruising RPM. An informal survey shows that most people thought the most amount of air moves through the breathers at higher RPM, when, in fact, the most is at idle and zero throttle decel.
The opposite is what we discovered. The most amount of air is moved through the breathers at an idle, during hard acceleration and during deceleration. A visual of this can be seen in the Video below. The actual numbers are in the charts below.
This stuff has convinced me to get the feuling vented dipstick when time comes.
I'm just curious as to why the engine would move so much air like that at idle. That's is so odd.
#1446
Yeah the question I have though is why? Why at idle would the M8 engine move the most air?
This stuff has convinced me to get the feuling vented dipstick when time comes.
I'm just curious as to why the engine would move so much air like that at idle. That's is so odd.
This stuff has convinced me to get the feuling vented dipstick when time comes.
I'm just curious as to why the engine would move so much air like that at idle. That's is so odd.
The engine has a breather valve assembly in each rocker box. The oil tank is internally vented back to the engine crankcase to return the air pumped by the scavenge element of the oil pump and allow the tank to vent through the breathers. The air gets up to the breathers through the pushrod cover tubes. Venting the oil tank cap is not at all necessary as the breathers in the cylinder heads perform that function.
#1447
The crancase vent flow is totally dependant on the quality of the piston ring seal. All of the flow comes from blow-by past the piston rings. All engines are different depending on the piston rings, the condition of the cylinder walls, piston clearance, etc.
The engine has a breather valve assembly in each rocker box. The oil tank is internally vented back to the engine crankcase to return the air pumped by the scavenge element of the oil pump and allow the tank to vent through the breathers. The air gets up to the breathers through the pushrod cover tubes. Venting the oil tank cap is not at all necessary as the breathers in the cylinder heads perform that function.
The engine has a breather valve assembly in each rocker box. The oil tank is internally vented back to the engine crankcase to return the air pumped by the scavenge element of the oil pump and allow the tank to vent through the breathers. The air gets up to the breathers through the pushrod cover tubes. Venting the oil tank cap is not at all necessary as the breathers in the cylinder heads perform that function.
I have my both my M8 breathers vented, but only my touring is vented through the oil cap, not my Softail. With that, I have a 50/50 shot of whatever being correct with all these different opinions.
#1448
#1449
Thank you, I will appreciate the pics, as I am doing this next weekend. A bit of confusion as to what, if any harnesses are needed. This bike is supposed to be pre-wired for heated grips. The instructions give a different part # than the fitment tab on the website.
Instructions says route the harness out the back of the USB caddy and up the frame, but you can route it out the top and inside the wiring caddy for a cleaner install. The black and black/white connector just plugs into the connector in the caddy (that’s left to right grip connector) The blurry pic is the new terminal pins crimped on the power wires
#1450
Check out these videos.
https://www.a1cycles.net/ventilator-videos
https://www.a1cycles.net/ventilator-videos
His third video (starts with the M8 with the throttle body and manifold removed) says venting the trans solves the crankcase breather puking oil. (Not seeing that yet on my low-mileage 107 motor, at least looking inside the air cleaner where they vent.)
@Burbur2 Unfortunately I live in Belgium and the shipping costs to the US are outrageous expensive also I'm not in the businesses to make money out of my creations, that time is long gone. I al so
need the oem dipstick to make the altering at the head where the oem plastic cap sits and fit the new body and cap in to it. I have two dipsticks here myself and between the two is a small difference
of 0.3mm but that is enough to either the new body is to loose or to thick to fit. So it is really a custom job part at part.
The valve I ordered is in a local automotive shop, the valve is originally used in a diesel system and is small enough to insert in the aluminium body I made and is diesel, petrol and oil resistant. The
working pressure range is 0.2 to 10 bar and working temperature range: -30 to 180℃ , I only got a rough indication from how long and thick it is from the catalog so to make a snug fit I have to wait
until they arrives so I can adapt the body I made.
The valve looks like this:
need the oem dipstick to make the altering at the head where the oem plastic cap sits and fit the new body and cap in to it. I have two dipsticks here myself and between the two is a small difference
of 0.3mm but that is enough to either the new body is to loose or to thick to fit. So it is really a custom job part at part.
The valve I ordered is in a local automotive shop, the valve is originally used in a diesel system and is small enough to insert in the aluminium body I made and is diesel, petrol and oil resistant. The
working pressure range is 0.2 to 10 bar and working temperature range: -30 to 180℃ , I only got a rough indication from how long and thick it is from the catalog so to make a snug fit I have to wait
until they arrives so I can adapt the body I made.
The valve looks like this:
Last edited by AJ88V; 12-14-2019 at 05:15 PM.
The following users liked this post:
GrenV (12-15-2019)