Everything 2018 FatBoy thread
#981
sorry IBE,didn't know I had another question about the tag,this was the first thing I did to this bike when I brought it home in 2018,there is tag mount made for fatboys with lights, but I refuse to pay $ 350.00,since tags just ugly up any m/c.I made part of the tag mount from a ebay china part 19.95 and 1/2 square tubing($4.00),thats what the running/brake strip light sits on(39.00)and tag holder is a run/turn/brake(100.00 ?)pic shows running and haz lights,both lights are from custom dynamics,but check out their site, they have a new strip light for fat boys,hope this helps you and GlennDaleAnderson
The following 2 users liked this post by Henboykin:
GlennDaleAnderson (04-25-2022),
IBE (04-26-2022)
#982
Two questions... what seat would you recommend for a 5'8 lightweight person like myself. The stock seat is quite firm after 400km. So might look into something more comfy. Second question : I had a dealer install V&H slipons on my FXLRS before I treded it in and it lost a LOT of power in the low-end. So I'm very reluctant to do anything about the exhaust. I don't need more power at high revs which are welcome of course, but I definitely do NO want to lose power in lower revs. Tips? European EURO5 models need a tune even with slipons because they need to disable o2 sensors which are also on the rear pipes.
#983
Two questions... what seat would you recommend for a 5'8 lightweight person like myself. The stock seat is quite firm after 400km. So might look into something more comfy. Second question : I had a dealer install V&H slipons on my FXLRS before I treded it in and it lost a LOT of power in the low-end. So I'm very reluctant to do anything about the exhaust. I don't need more power at high revs which are welcome of course, but I definitely do NO want to lose power in lower revs. Tips? European EURO5 models need a tune even with slipons because they need to disable o2 sensors which are also on the rear pipes.
If you have smaller diameter slip-ons like the Eliminator 300s, you need 118W, If you have larger inner diameter pipes, you can use 158W.
They go in your exhaust like this:
The following users liked this post:
roadrunner1414 (04-29-2022)
#984
Thunder Torque inserts. DKCustoms makes them.
If you have smaller diameter slip-ons like the Eliminator 300s, you need 118W, If you have larger inner diameter pipes, you can use 158W.
They go in your exhaust like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxwgO3rfdnQ
If you have smaller diameter slip-ons like the Eliminator 300s, you need 118W, If you have larger inner diameter pipes, you can use 158W.
They go in your exhaust like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxwgO3rfdnQ
#985
taous71 20inch tall FLFB sissy bar from Ebay, with the HD FLFB/FXBR luggage rack attached to it.
I actually have 2 of them. One with the rack permanently attached, and a 2nd that has no rack or pad for style purposes.
I actually have 2 of them. One with the rack permanently attached, and a 2nd that has no rack or pad for style purposes.
#986
4inch curved fat risers installed. These seemed the best overall option that didn't make me get new cables.
Was able to do it without removing the tank or nacelle or anything else.
@iHodor Your pics and info that you've posted about those risers really helped with making the choice to get these.
I'm very pleased they don't spoil the look of the bike. It's almost hard to notice the difference, that the bike was even changed, which is good.
Was able to do it without removing the tank or nacelle or anything else.
@iHodor Your pics and info that you've posted about those risers really helped with making the choice to get these.
I'm very pleased they don't spoil the look of the bike. It's almost hard to notice the difference, that the bike was even changed, which is good.
The following 2 users liked this post by FranBunnyFFXII:
DutchBoy17 (05-05-2022),
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#988
Difference? I dunno yet. I think I can sit up a little bit more upright. I think it basically put the stock riding position back for me that I had with the stock seat and risers.
Since the new seats I have moved me back like 2 inches.
That seat is the Saddlemen Explorer RS seat, standard off the shelf version they sell.
It has a more riding ontop of the bike, rather than in the bike feel, like the Knuckle Profiler tan seat, and stock seat made me feel.
#989
Ok thanks, I'm still working out a bit whether I should be more upright or the opposite, a bit more leaning forward. I feel I still have a bit too much pain in my lower back (not the bike, back hurts even when I sit on a chair...). Experimenting a bit with sitting more close to the bars or furhter away, I feel myself shifting quite a bit in seating position which tells me I will need to adjust some things. Main issue right now, apart from the back, is that the seat feels a bit hard after about 45mins riding.
#990
I personally never had a problem with the stock seat, or bars once I had adjusted my bars down to fit the way I wanted them to feel.
Even a 300 mile day, no problem. But I'm very light weight at 128lbs average.
I'd suggest to take a ratchet, a hex bit, and T25+T27 Torx Bit out to the bike with you in a backpack or something and do some adjustments, until it all feels right.
Torque it down properly with a torque wrench when you get home. I put my bike on the lift on level ground so it'd stand straight up, and I sat on it and adjusted things until they felt right, and went for rides to test things. I eventually got it setup nicely.
With the stock hardware I turned my controls downward a fair bit and lowered the bars down a fair bit from stock as well, that made it comfortable for me.
I'm in the process of figuring out where everything needs to be with the new stuff now.
It wasn't until I swapped to the Knuckle seat that I was having some issues, these risers are meant to fix that. I got these risers for 175$ so it wasn't the riskiest thing ever to give them a shot.
Even a 300 mile day, no problem. But I'm very light weight at 128lbs average.
I'd suggest to take a ratchet, a hex bit, and T25+T27 Torx Bit out to the bike with you in a backpack or something and do some adjustments, until it all feels right.
Torque it down properly with a torque wrench when you get home. I put my bike on the lift on level ground so it'd stand straight up, and I sat on it and adjusted things until they felt right, and went for rides to test things. I eventually got it setup nicely.
With the stock hardware I turned my controls downward a fair bit and lowered the bars down a fair bit from stock as well, that made it comfortable for me.
I'm in the process of figuring out where everything needs to be with the new stuff now.
It wasn't until I swapped to the Knuckle seat that I was having some issues, these risers are meant to fix that. I got these risers for 175$ so it wasn't the riskiest thing ever to give them a shot.