Everything 2018 FatBoy thread
#761
You can buy tires from cyclegear and have them shipped to your local store, and then have them mount them for 25$ a pop.
My local CycleGear said they wont take the wheels off you have to bring the wheels in on your own, might apply to every store, but its cheaper and easier than doing it yourself
Just about any 240/40 R18 out there will work for the rear on the Fat Boy, and you can get a 160/60 R18 or B18 mounted in reverse for the front, a 150/70 B18 or R18 should be fine on the front too.
And yes in Reverse is important because of how tires are manufactured.
My local CycleGear said they wont take the wheels off you have to bring the wheels in on your own, might apply to every store, but its cheaper and easier than doing it yourself
Just about any 240/40 R18 out there will work for the rear on the Fat Boy, and you can get a 160/60 R18 or B18 mounted in reverse for the front, a 150/70 B18 or R18 should be fine on the front too.
And yes in Reverse is important because of how tires are manufactured.
Last edited by IBE; 10-14-2021 at 09:22 AM.
#762
#763
#764
It has less rake, and a smaller diameter front wheel. Shorter wheel base, and less trail. These all contribute to better tip in and flickability of a bike. It'll be even better if you swap to pegs from the stock floorboards because then you'll get a bit more lean angle out of it. Breakout already comes with pegs so there isnt anything you can do in that regard.
As for Neutral, I've found that pulling up from first really slow until the N light comes on makes finding neutral much easier. It clicks into 2nd really easily unless I go really snails pace slow. My bike doesnt click what soever when it goes into neutral.
#766
Some people have said that changing the primary fluid to something else makes it easier. I know Hulkks who has a heritage is running a dirt bike transmission fluid?(i dont remember exactly) and prefers that over primary fluid or 20w50.
#767
@iHodor Well I finally have an update. It looks like the BCM in my bike is fried. And OFC the BCM is on backorder. It got shorted out and needs to be replaced. That's what was causing the bike to always be power on. They pulled the switches and they were fine.
They're going to have to wait till I have the new BCM and battery in the bike for them to test the starter and solenoid,
Looks like I'll be waiting on a new BCM and service bill to get the bike back on the road.
They're going to have to wait till I have the new BCM and battery in the bike for them to test the starter and solenoid,
Looks like I'll be waiting on a new BCM and service bill to get the bike back on the road.
The following users liked this post:
Glenn Gorman (03-04-2022)
#768
#769
Now I have to hope that the stuck system didn't short the solenoid nor the starter.
Personally I'm pretty sure the starter and solenoid are fine because the stuck on issue didnt start until after I got back from a ride, and went back 20 minutes later to get a video of the bike.
The video I have is showing that It was quiet and not making the click sound until I tried to start the bike twice.
Both times the bike turned on, then clicked entirely off when I pressed the starter switch.
I put my phone away to take a look at the bike and that's when it started clicking like a bike with a dead battery by itself.
When I went back to do a battery test, the bike started right away when I put the jumper battery on it.
I'm not sure what could cause the BCM to short itself like that but I hope there's not something else in the starter pipeline to worry about.
I'm bringing them a brand new AGM battery for them to install instead of the OEM SLA.
What a mess.
#770