If you have ABS you can simply get an upper brake cable. Clutch is also an easy change at the adjuster. For 12” you should use +4” for them all. That’s what I used for my 12” T-bars, If you don’t have ABS you may need the entire cable. Still +4”.

Dealer can order upper clutch, brake, control and throttle extensions.

 

Hey Mark, how ya been?? Everything going ok Down Under?

I put 10" Todd Cycles mini apes on mine. The stock cables worked ok with rerouting; I had to remove the clamp under the triple tree on the brake line and not put the clutch cable through the loop on the nacelle. Steering full left to full right didn't have any binding but I just didn't like it. I ended up ordering HD's 37" upper clutch cable p/n 37200326 ($75 & change from Surdyke). I don't have ABS and I didn't like the looks of HD's "adaptor" needed to add an upper brake line. Although Magnum Shielding is known for their steel braided lines they also have plain ole vinyl. I got a one piece 42" line p/n SBC0607-42. Dennis Kirk had 'em in stock so I ordered from them, their p/n 1912826, $51 & change.

Electric cables were ok for me. Your buddy might need +2". I'd check out Namz dot com to see what they have, Dennis Kirk also stocks their stuff.

-jeff

EDIT: Oops, didn't see MChad's reply. He nailed it, for 12" +4 should do ya fine.

 

Nice!

 

I got the Neighbor Haters installed and the laydown plate on. I haven't got to mounting the T-Bars yet. I'll do some pics and maybe a video after the bars get done.

Those that have changed bars, did you remove the gas tank? I see a lot recommend removing the tank for better access to the wires. Did you use new bushings? I also saw a few recommend going to poly bushings.

Just wondering if there is anything else I need to buy before I start. What about new grips, are they needed/recommended?

I love the laydown plate and the Cobras are sounding great.

 

I removed the gas tank and put in poly bushings when I did mine. Having the tank totally out of the way to me just made it easier getting to the wring harnesses and connectors in the frame.

New grips aren’t *needed* but you’d need to be careful getting the left one off. If you think you’d ever replace them now would be the time.

 

I removed the bolts and slid the tank back an inch or so, which gave me access to the wiring port. Also, I use a auto trim tool (basically a flat plastic blade) to tuck the edges of the rubber grommet back in when done.

FYI, Harley’s poly bushings are repackaged Alloy Art Gooden Tight’s which are excellent. I’ve used them on all my bikes for years. Also, I’d recommend picking up a new left grip. Ive never been able to reuse one successfully, the always end up too loose from stretching when I manhandle them off...

Lastly, pick up some cable pull lube and slather the hell out of the cables before you pull them through. Makes the job so much easier. I used this, which will last me forever:
Good luck!

 

Thanks.

I was thinking of just moving the tank enough to get to the wires. I'll get poly bushings and new grips, I had some Avon cued up on Amazon, just didn't order them. I have some Harley gift card money left, might get poly bushings from them.

 

I didn't touch the tank. The wires are not hidden under the tank. They are right out in the open.

 

I was looking at that, and I thought I could do it without touching the tank, but it seemed every video and the instructions for the Harley Street Slammer and other bars mentioned removing the tank. That's why I asked, I prefer to remove, unbolt as little as possible.

Thanks for the info.

 

(run the gas low) Pull the front tank bolt out, loosen the rear bolt and simply lift the front of the tank up and use a piece of hard foam or something to support the tank. When you lift the front of the tank the wire grommet for the gauges going into the frame will pull right out.
I tried doing the bar wiring without moving the tank, it is probably possible but I gave up and moved the tank.