I heard drilling tiny hole on the bottom of the speedo make fog disappear for good. Didnt had a chance to try it yet but maybe someone did here on our forum.

 

I think drilling a hole is the wrong direction. That would guarantee that the speedo body would be full of air at the prevailing humidity of the day Then when the warm air inside the speedo touches the glass when the glass is cooler (hmm, maybe while running down the highway?) you'll get condensation on the cool inside of the glass.. The better direction is to work on ensuring the speedo is air tight, especially if you can seal it while it's full of very dry air. For me it's a pretty big annoyance when it happens since of course it blocks some interesting information down at the bottom of the speedo. It's not driving me to take the time to rip into it versus many other things going on in my world right now. At some point I suppose I could pull it off the bike, ensure everything is sealed up tight, then drill a hole, blow hot air into it for a good long time and then seal it up very quickly somehow. I'll wait for the smart guys to solve it for me.
A couple of observations that I think have been shared before, my '07 RKC had this problem although not as severe. My '05 Springer and my '91 Evo Springer absolutely never had this problem. We managed to go backwards over the years.

 

Agree 100%, do not drill a hole. What is explained above is the absolute correct situation. Humid air gets in, gets hot, moves to the top (glass), as wind passes over glass creates a temperature drop sufficient for condensation to occur and you get fog as a result. My field is science. Anyways. I rode again today, not much, but was sunny and relatively warm, no fog, this go around. I'll keep all in the loop if my fix of putting some grease on the contact rubber/silicone seal after drying the interior actually did the job. Thanks.

 

yes please keep us posted I am definitely interested to solve this.

p.s. Dude that drilled the hole swears by it that is working but I have no clue if this is for real or not. Maybe one day we will know before someone decide to try it before throwing stock unit away as these are only good for this purpose.

 

Final balance after 50,000 test kilometers (hopefully good translated by google )

The VW Beetle used to be the inspiration for unconditional reliability. Transferred to the here and now, the endurance test Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114 takes over the Beetle legacy. Indestructible, reliable, an endurance runner.

The MOTORRAD endurance test, the toughest distance test for bikes. Selected two-wheelers have to prove themselves here, to prove themselves as loyal companions day in and day out.
And please do not surrender to seasonal capers such as ice, snow or road salt. With the right tires,
the Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114 also succeeds. Because Pirelli's Night Dragon proved to be more of a slipping than a safe power transmitter of the fat 152 Nm torque in cold and wet conditions,
it had to go down again after a good 2,000 kilometers. Otherwise the Harley would have simply stood there too long, significantly more than the usual two years that most motorcycles need to master the required 50,000 kilometers.
And in almost all cases they do not appear on the clock without planned intermediate stops. This is exactly what the endurance test is supposed to bring to light. Where has a product possibly not been fully developed?
Which updates does a manufacturer incorporate during the distance? And in the worst case: Why does a bike stop - only for a short time or even permanently?

The Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114 entered the long-term test stage on June 6, 2018. And let's say it honestly: She didn't feel she was pure sympathy. The number of those who consciously want to commit themselves to the more
leisurely riding style with a Harley is low. The MOTORRAD crew prefer to indulge in driving dynamics. It was no different with the Harley. Contrary to other empirical values ​​on the part of the Harley technicians, the endurance test
Heritage used three sets of original brake pads and a test accessory pad at the front over the test distance - while a single set at the rear survived the entire 50,000 kilometers. According to Harley's relevant service experience,
it is often the other way around among heritage owners. Which only underlines: The big 114 engine and the entire bike were not spared.

'A scandal. For the writer. '

Eager readers will definitely remember the interim results of the Harley endurance test in MOTORRAD 23/2019 (download the issue as PDF). Even then, the list of defects spoke a very clear language: a slight rust on the exhaust,
the clutch tears sometimes, once not started, new software for the speedometer was installed, and a taillight bulb had to be replaced. A scandal. And an intolerable one. For the writer. To put it all right: this is nothing. Nothing.
Mainly because these really tiny ailments were already mentioned in the interim balance. Then the twin vibrated through a taillight bulb again - its true Achilles heel. Otherwise nothing happened. The recommendation for all drivers of
the same bike is therefore straightforward: Lean back, enjoy your motorcycle and take a taillight bulb with you just in case (order number 68167-04, 3.95 euros).
No trace of wear and tear

So basically everything has been said. What a search for words is for the author means kudos for Harley. There is no better way to master the 50,000 kilometers from the point of view of reliability. A big movie theater.
So if nothing happened while drifting on the country road or the motorway, what about after dismantling? Basically, the Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114 retains its reliable character. The oil pump has slight scoring.
However, they do not restrict the function. And the camshaft alone: ​​as if it had just fallen off the shelf in Milwaukee. No trace of wear and tear. This statement could be made for many other parts. The gear? Immaculate condition.
The crankshaft? Tip top. The balance shafts? Virtually new condition. Before starting an endurance test, there is often speculation about whether the engine can simply be reassembled after disassembly. With the Harley-Davidson,
that fits almost 100 percent. Get new seals and off you go in reverse order.

Idle often remains undetectable.
At least almost. The clutch friction plates, which are installed in two different thicknesses, are no longer the latest. The thickness of the thinner disks in the clutch basket has reached the level of wear,
and it is necessary to replace them before reassembly. But blame the Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114? Not at all, after all, the clutch transmitted the Ami-V2's rich torque mountain without complaint until
the end of the endurance test. However: Entries about the clutch and the transmission can be found over the 50,000 kilometers not only in the driver's log, but also in numerous letters from readers.
The controllability is not the best, the transmission requires a lot of power, especially when the engine is cold, the idling often remains undetectable. Not nice, but also not a flaw for the final long-term test assessment.

The Harley has to accept point deductions elsewhere. Since the company does not define any degree of wear for the cylinders and pistons, only the running clearance between these two components counts.
Ideally, this is between 0.06 and 0.09 millimeters. That fits a cylinder of the endurance tester, the play is exactly at the upper limit of these values, with air still remaining up to the prescribed wear dimension
for the running play of 0.104 millimeters. With the second cylinder, however, this clearance is 0.110 millimeters. It is therefore not only outside the ideal values, but also slightly above the wear limit set by Harley.
Even if it's only a wafer-thin six thousandth of a millimeter - that's over it.
1st place in the endurance test final table

For classification, however, it must be noted: Up to the end of the endurance test, the fat V2 ran without bitches and abnormalities, pulsed as calmly and calmly through the speed range as at the beginning of the 50,000 kilometers.
Because no real oil consumption was measurable either, and the final performance measurement also revealed the best values, this small measurement weakness is not credited to the engine excessively. Had it not been dismantled on
the workbench, there would have been no reason to investigate the game, since the engine put up with ignition after ignition without any criticism. Thus, at the end of all tests, the Harley-Davidson Heritage Classic 114 not only runs
confidently over the 50,000 kilometer mark, but also takes first place in the endurance test final table - on a par with Yamaha's MT-07. Although it shows her a long nose in terms of costs per kilometer - the Harley is not very cheap
under this aspect - its really low loss of value, its endurance without failures and the good overall condition of its engine parts ensure that it moves forward unstoppably pushes.

At the end of the interim report, the author had announced it: If the 114 Heritage would land at number one, a declaration of love would be due. Well, dear Harley, my heart doesn't belong to you,
but your completely capricious demeanor, your robust character impressed me very much. You're quite rightly the new reliability champ!

 

I can only hope my ‘19 Heritage proves to be as reliable as that review claims. On the other hand, to me, 50,000 Km (31,000 miles) ain’t spit. I ran my last bike 223,000 miles until it was wrecked, so this bike has a lot to live up to.

 

I also have a 2019 Heritage 114. The Milwaukee 8 motor is the real deal. Far cry from my 103 I had on my 2014 Heritage. I truly feel, if you keep up on your maintenance as scheduled, using synthetic oil,

you should achieve what you’re expecting.

 

Ok following up as promised. trying to use grease to seal the connector plug di not made a perfect seal and humidity in spedo is showing again. I very likely will replace this HD OEM part with a custom down the road. If anyone has more info on the spedo breather hole, please let us know. It is very annoying not been able to read the darn thing on a sunny day. Thanks.

 

I just did this from another forum:

"Yes. My back of speedo is white plastic (bottom), except for the black trim that folds over the bottom, about a 1/2", and bar code on the right(holding it upside down). Mine had a factory hole on bottom (3/16"), when holding the folded over black trim at the top (looking at bottom) I put 2 -- 1/8th" holes, above that factory hole. The 2 holes, I drilled were about 3/8-1/2" above the factory hole. Just got back from riding (15 min ago), for 100 miles, and NO FOG. Also, I took a magnifying glass and looked inside the holes I drilled, and I saw a green computer board, and I looked for drill marks and saw none. Honestly, you have a 1/2" clearance, between the white plastic bottom and the green card inside, I took my speedometer out again today and cleaned the inside, just for the heck of it. So, that's 2 rides and about 350 miles, with NO FOG. The bottom white plastic is about an 1/8" thick. Hope this helps. Ride safe."

I'll let all know how it comes out. it is against my intuition, but since if this don't fix it I'm changing it anyways, I'm good for test and try. Thanks. fingers crossed.

 

Yes I was the one that seen post on FB from the dude that tried with added hole on back side of speedo and reported never have a problem again. He mentioned one small hole did the trick for him.

please be so kind and report back after more testing as hundreds of us wait for this fix