1000 mile service - Synthetic Oil?
#21
My bike hit 1000 miles yesterday and I started reading about others oil recommendations. After I read a couple of hundred posts, it was as clear as mud.
I was given a case of Syn3 and an oil filter from an uncle who sold his Harley about a year ago. I had planned on using Syn3 in the engine, primary, and tranny but started second guessing myself after reading all the posts. To make a long story short, I broke out the manual to see what MoCo recommends. The manual says to use Syn3 in the engine, primary, and tranny. It did stated Formula+ can be used in a pinch for the primary, but Syn3 is preferred. I ended up using Syn3 since it was recommended and I had plenty on hand.
I was given a case of Syn3 and an oil filter from an uncle who sold his Harley about a year ago. I had planned on using Syn3 in the engine, primary, and tranny but started second guessing myself after reading all the posts. To make a long story short, I broke out the manual to see what MoCo recommends. The manual says to use Syn3 in the engine, primary, and tranny. It did stated Formula+ can be used in a pinch for the primary, but Syn3 is preferred. I ended up using Syn3 since it was recommended and I had plenty on hand.
#22
A recent thread mentioned that Harley synthetic was not a true synthetic but a blend, I'm going with that for my first service. I have a gift card so I'll use the dealer first time, after that I'll go to my regular (highly trusted) indy shop and talk to him about non-syn vs. blend vs. full syn. and go with his recommendations. Figure dino oil for the first 1000, HD blend (?) up to 5K and maybe full syn. after that.
#24
#25
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I plan on going with Red Line x 3. Motor oil 20/50, primary oil, and Shock Proof in the transmission. The RL 20/50 is apparently the only Group 5 synthetic for that price and their transmission oil is darn near famous. Their primary oil ,, why not ? RL at least addresses the clutch issue in their promotional material so its something they pay attention to. I get it that cheaper brands would no doubt do the job but none of it is cheap so for the difference in Px I'll humor myself with full synthetic Group 5 Red Line. Besides, you can cut the bottoms out of their neat containers and make excellent funnels out of em. Try that with your Mobil 1 .
#26
Here's my take. Synthetic is a form of extra insurance. The regluar oil has no problems with it. It does it's job. If you change oil regularly, then there is no reason not to use it. But, if you ride harder and/or tend to push the oil changes to their limit, synthetic will help make sure the oil is still performing as you need it to right up to the last mile before you change it.
#27
I plan on going with Red Line x 3. Motor oil 20/50, primary oil, and Shock Proof in the transmission. The RL 20/50 is apparently the only Group 5 synthetic for that price and their transmission oil is darn near famous. Their primary oil ,, why not ? RL at least addresses the clutch issue in their promotional material so its something they pay attention to. I get it that cheaper brands would no doubt do the job but none of it is cheap so for the difference in Px I'll humor myself with full synthetic Group 5 Red Line. Besides, you can cut the bottoms out of their neat containers and make excellent funnels out of em. Try that with your Mobil 1 .
#28
#29
I was always under the understanding that if there were to be condensation or moisture, It would blend with the regular oil to cause an emulsion, and still offer some lubrication, where as synthetic will not cause an emulsion with moisture, and leave free water particles to break down lubricating qualities.... May not effect everyone depending on your riding conditions, but being from Alberta where we can ride in 4 seasons in a day, I've always stuck with regular oil....
#30