How do you delete routes once imported? I'm getting an error saying the Nav database is full and don't see how to delete routes or points (at least haven't found it yet)

 

Go to post number 137 in this thread.

 

You know I went thru the posts as best I could, so damn many, I'm shocked (not really) I missed it, thanks!

 

Thanks, you just saved me going nuts.
I swear to God that sometimes I get different results trying to get to that area.. sometimes I click NAV and it goes straight to the map and not the menu.

 

Well, just returned home this afternoon after nearly 3,400 miles in the last 9 days. Here are my experiences and reflections on the GPS unit on my 2014 Limited.

The nine-waypoint thing turned out to be a non-issue. With a little luck and some thoughtful placement of said waypoints, we were able to have day-trips of up to 650 miles without issue. Granted, I split up one day in the Colorado Rockies into two trips, but that is really no big deal--it only takes a second to load up another trip at the end of the first.

I learned that where you put the waypoints makes a big difference in how the route is traveled. For instance, start the trip down the road a block or two from where you actually parked for the night, so that the route takes you out of the parking lot before registering the first waypoint. Similarly, end the route a block or so (within sight) of your bunk for the night so that it quits routing on its own.

If you head up a dead-end road (like up Mt. Evans) that you have to come back down, don't bother wasting waypoints on a road that you have to return down--just shut the volume off for the prompts, and it will resume when you're back on the main road again.

I had to cancel routing during only two routes, and for the same or similar reason--the maps are in need of updating, and something as major as Hwy. 20 in West-Central Iowa has a missing chunk that it tried to route me around. The only problem with resuming this route automatically was that I had dropped a waypoint on the missing highway in Tyre that the GPS didn't know how to find. The other aborted route was due to the GPS thinking that a road in south-central Colorado was gravel (had the avoid gravel setting activated), when it was, in fact, paved. Narrow, no lines, and super small, but paved, nonetheless.

I shut the GPS voice off by cancelling the route, and forged on ahead, trusting my gut, and sure enough, we found a fantastic new road!

A couple of times I used the unit to just find the next town, and that proved to be utterly reliable.

All in all, I count this experiment a success. Certainly easy enough to load routes, and other than some outdated map issues, quite user-friendly.

I have since un-checked the "avoid gravel" setting, because it seems that I have better luck just using my eyes and judgement than hope a GPS nanny can reliably advise about gravel. And just for the record, we're not afraid of gravel, and rode on plenty this trip--just don't want the GPS re-routing based on that avoidance preference being somewhat goofy.

All the best,

Shane

 

Thanks for the detailed report Shane - glad it worked well for you & that you had great trip!

 

Thanks man!

Yeah, I hate it when people say they're going to update with a report later and don't. Least I could do.

All the best,

Shane

 

My bike has been in timeout in recent weeks. I am going to this event on this Saturday http://www.theveteransrally.org/ which is 90 miles from my house. The trip has multiple turns and i have 9 way points. I plan to test it going and coming. I am old and forgetful but plan to give an update perhaps as early as Sunday.

 

Yesterday started off as usual. The gps started routing me off of my intended route. On the bike my setting is set at fastest. Even when it did this the screen showed the wrong route and the correct route at the same time. But after 25 miles into the trip it worked fine for the rest of the day. On my reverse route home it was perfect. I used Tyre to plot my trip.

Do i trust the gps on my 29000 dollar harley? Not in this life time. So prior to a days ride i will always study road maps so i can tell the difference between the correct route and the wrong one.

 

I was finally able to spend some meaningful time developing a route in Rider Planner & transferring it to the 6.5 Navigation system.

We had friends over, on bikes, from out-of-state for 3 days last weekend, & I wanted to plan a ride through some specific areas staying off the local interstates & staying on 2-lane blacktop: a nearby trendy town for a morning cup of Starbucks caffeine in the park overlooking natural waterfalls; then meandering our way to a biker friendly town on the lake for some lunch, then another route home through Amish country. Total mileage: about 125. Here's a few tips, some of which may already be known but mentioned anyway:

1. Do not start the trip with your home as the first point. I tried it & it didn't work at all for me. Our home is on a corner lot, the driveway enters from the side street. If I use my address as the starting point, when I'm in my garage the 6.5 tells me to pull out of the driveway & go left, go to the stop sign, make another left & go a few feet & then stop at my address on the main street. That would be OK unless my route called for me to go straight or right at that stop sign; I would then have to make a U turn. I choose to make the starting point, or Location #1, down the street a bit.
2. When creating a route, do NOT use Waypoints - use Locations. Here's why: anytime Locations or Waypoints are added, they are always added to the end of the route. However, the position (or order) of Locations can be changed in the left hand panel of the Ride Planner software - the order of Waypoints cannot. I used all Locations to force my routes which allowed me add them as needed, then change the position of that point. Lets say I had 6 points, but I needed another between 3 & 4 to force the route a certain way. I added a Location at the point I needed it, it automatically became Location #7. I then used the arrows on the left panel in Ride Planner to move that up in the order to between #3 & #4 & forcing the route how I wanted it. When I had the Locations correct in Ride Planner & the routes were going the way I wanted them to, I changed all the points used to force the routes from Locations to Waypoints. Stopping points - where we wanted to stop for coffee, the town we had lunch, etc., remained Locations.
3. Do not use intersections as Locations or Waypoints. I didn't want to accept this, because within the 6.5 software you can search for an intersection of 2 roads & once found, use it as a destination location. It doesn't work so well when picked in Ride Planner & downloaded into the 6.5 from a memory stick. I tried this over & over, picking the very center of the 4-way intersection in Ride Planner but once loaded into the 6.5, the Location (actually, now a Waypoint) had moved a few yards down one of the intersecting streets. I wanted to go straight at this intersection, but the 6.5 insisted I turn left & travel so many yards to my Waypoint. It proved best to create a Location beyond the intersection, maybe 100 yards or so down the road, & once it was in the correct position order, change it to a Waypoint.

The routes worked well, directing me exactly how I had them planned in Ride Planner. It should be noted: I had "Avoid highways for this segment" checked in Ride Planner for each segment, & the 6.5 set to avoid highways too.

I hope that might help someone trying to use Ride Planner to program the 6.5 Navigation system.