Accessory Switch On Ultras and Limiteds
#1
Accessory Switch On Ultras and Limiteds
Harley eliminated the accessory switch on the dash panel that the previous years always had on our 2014 models. It used to be on the right side of the dash. The only functioning switch now is the passing lamp switch on the far left panel. Has anyone on this forum bought an additional switch and mounted it in place of the dummies on the left side of the panel?? The right side switch block is just a hole filler. Harley does sell an momentary switch and a passing lamp switch for these. Just wondered if anyone here actually put a switch plunger in that left module and made it functional.
#2
#3
GunnySgt,
I have and there are several things that can be done with them.
Read the following and hope this answers some questions...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ut-outs-2.html Post # 19
I have and there are several things that can be done with them.
Read the following and hope this answers some questions...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ut-outs-2.html Post # 19
#4
Harley eliminated the accessory switch on the dash panel that the previous years always had on our 2014 models. It used to be on the right side of the dash. The only functioning switch now is the passing lamp switch on the far left panel. Has anyone on this forum bought an additional switch and mounted it in place of the dummies on the left side of the panel?? The right side switch block is just a hole filler. Harley does sell an momentary switch and a passing lamp switch for these. Just wondered if anyone here actually put a switch plunger in that left module and made it functional.
"On the left side you already have 2 extra switches in a sealed switch pak. You have 2 choices. A detente button or a momentary button like the CVO uses for the electric locks. Those are the only two available now. They are about $15.00 each. The wire harness comes out under the left side cover. Pull the switch Pak out release the lock tab remove the blank, insert new button assembly. All there is to it. Only draw back is they have 2 amp max rating so if you run anything that needs more current you need to use a relay."
#5
Very interesting. So you are saying the switch module (harley's service manual term) is wired to the accessory connector under the left cover? I already have the pigtail 8 pin to 4 pin conversion mounted to run my saddlebag lights. What I want to do is mount an auxilary set of caliper mounted lights like the Custom Dynamic Billet LED driving lights. I ordered another switch 7140034 today, hope I can mount it upside down in the module to distinguish it from the passing lamp switch. Now I have to figure out how to wire the CD driving lights into that switch. I can remove one of the dummies and install the new switch, it's the remaining wiring I need to figure out. I'll check on the current draw on the LEDs as well.
#6
Very interesting. So you are saying the switch module (harley's service manual term) is wired to the accessory connector under the left cover? I already have the pigtail 8 pin to 4 pin conversion mounted to run my saddlebag lights. What I want to do is mount an auxilary set of caliper mounted lights like the Custom Dynamic Billet LED driving lights. I ordered another switch 7140034 today, hope I can mount it upside down in the module to distinguish it from the passing lamp switch. Now I have to figure out how to wire the CD driving lights into that switch. I can remove one of the dummies and install the new switch, it's the remaining wiring I need to figure out. I'll check on the current draw on the LEDs as well.
#7
Ok, I'll check on that part number again. My 2014 Touring Parts manual is due here today. I have some decent wiring knowledge thanks to Uncle Sam. I'll need to find out what wiring is needed to connect the driving lights to that switch. I have no idea if the switch that is already there has empty spades to connect to or what.
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#8
#9
I just called Custom Dynamics tech line. The site said 'low current draw" but no figures. According to them, the lights only draw .75 amp. I figure that's per unit so it would only be 1.5 amps total. That's within specs to not need the relay. Halogen draw a lot more. Still would like to run them off a switch so I'll figure out wiring them to the new additional switch when it arrives.