I have the harley pull backs. I really think I want a bit more and want to try yaffe 10 . But I have read and found parts catalogs conflicting whethere they will work on 2014. So I am thinking I will order them and have both bars available when I tear it down to replace them. If yaffe work good...if not then I already have the pull backs. That's the plan I'm working on at this time .
Hap

 

I posted I was going to install the bars on my 2014 Ultra, did it couple weeks ago. Instructions were good and did run into other issues.

getting the fairing off and access was quick and easy, the hand controls took a while, did not want to break them. getting the trip reset switch off took awhile. manual said just pop it off with a pick, looked for spot to remove it but you don't remove the arm just have to slide the cap over and out of its grove to the left. after that the switch arms open up like 2 C with latch on top.
the bottom connectors would not run thru the bars but the smaller top connectors went in the bottom and up fine use 8" HD extensions OK
the clutch and brake lines were no extra room to spare.
I bought the new twist grip with out the green plug to make it easy but!!!
the bottom connector was a male and the stock one was female??? look at it and checked with dealer "just plugs in like old one" NOT... 2014 they changed the connector to a female, cut wires near connector and soldered it in. that took me few hours taking it to HD and researching it.
also put my 8.5" Klockwerks windshield on and it was sitting on the bars, moved bars back off the windshield was better and less reach.
picked up bars at fedex @9:30 got done at 6. not bad. could do it again in much less time.
hoped this helps.

 

Well changed to the reduced reach bars on 2014 tri Glide. All went well and I was going to finish in less than 2.5 hours.b didn't remove ignition switch there is a groove to remove cover with out taking switch apart. But problem when all finished".........
Some idiot (me) pinched a small wire in the controls and I had no start.
Everything else worked but no start when hit starter button. Took apart found couple wires smashed in the right hand control. So I had to pull out the old Air Force solder skills and cut and solder couple wires with heat shrink at end of job.
Put back together and all is well. Nothing hard about this project..just look over how wires are routed around the switches to get them back to where they belong on re assembling . Test drove few miles reduced reach bars do feel better than stock. I can sit back against the riders backrest with no problem. Will give longer test this evening or tomorrow .
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Got a follow up in case anyone is interested.

Rode three hours Friday for work over the weekend, rode in and around over the weekend, then 4.5 hours back due to construction on interstate. 1.5 hours of the return trip were in stop and go traffic over a 6 mile stretch(shoulder closed).

What a difference. I was able to relax my hands, arms, and shoulders instead of having stretched arms most of the time. The grip angle is very similar, if not the same, as stock. Due to past shoulder damage and associated surgeries, I wouldn't have been able to do the return trip without a long stop. But, I was able to do it with just a short stop for gas, water, and a stretch. Zero pain at the end, whereas pain would start after about two hours into a ride before. BTW, I had done the same ride twice within the last three months, once with some traffic congestion, so I had an accurate comparison.

This was well worth the $145.00 and 2.5 hours of vacation time.

 

That procedure is the best argument I've seen for a Road King.

 

Alaskan, It's hard to argue with your logic, but the Tour Pack is a must for us. I priced a Road King with the stuff I wanted, but it was less money to go with this and change as necessary. I have the slick downed model for me, but can carry the better half and stuff when we want.

 

I need help with step #2. How do you get the ignition apart? Sorry I don't have a shop manual. The rest looks straight forward.

 

Ignition does not need to be removed. Ignore that step.

 

No ignition switch removal needed on 2014. Not sure about other years. I think I turned the bars full left and put switch in lock and the cover slipped off.
Hap

 

Thanks guys!!