I've been following this post since the beginning. I too wanted bars closer to me. I ordered the bars today from Surdyke today. I;ve read that it takes a while to get an order shipped from them, but I'll wait. I'll keep this thread handy for when I do my install. Thanks for everyone who contributed to it.

 

 

Just follow JT pics. and takes lots of pics. of your own . Its not that hard. Use string to pull your wires through the bars. Make sure the fender and the gas tank are protected. I use a furniture pad, the type you would use for moving. GOOD LUCK!

 

Okay the deed is done and I answered my own questions.

1. You have to pull the headlight & fairing shell in order to get the inner fairing and associated stuff to tilt far enough forward to access the top bolts of the handlebar clamp. After wrestling with it for 45 minutes I finally did it JT's way and then it was smooth sailing.
2. It just didn't want to work that way.

I did not take pictures because other than bike color they would look just like JTs.

Here are a couple of other interesting things that may make your job easier.
1. On the 2014s , you can do this install without removing the ignition switch but you have to be an expert at puzzles to work out how to remove the panel once you have it loose. Leaving the forks straight but cycling the ignition switch to the lock position worked best for me.
2. There is enough slack that you can pull the TBW out the end of the old bars and disconnect. I found it easier to trace the wiring down by the right fork and disconnect there. Then remove the old bars with the TBW still inside. Then I removed the TBW and rewired the new bars on the workbench.

The new wiring and new clutch & brake hose requirements are a myth. I am using the OEM units with no problems.

Total time from start to finish was 3 hrs 15 minutes. I am confident I could cut that time in half, if I did it again.

If you are in the south Kansas City area and don't want to tackle the job. Send me a PM, I will do it for half the dealers price

 

I have the bars coming in Saturday got the wire extensions and getting the cvo TBW that has no connectors to do the job. been checking out how to do and have service manual. ft Lauderdale dealer admitted that they are the only parts needed. wanted 7 hrs labor. I have installed the 11" santee ones on my 2010 EG took the whole weekend.

JT HD what part of Florida you from?

 

Deland, about 200 miles north of ya.

 

JT, thank you so much for the write-up. My husband and I installed my new bars this afternoon with no issues. We didn't need any new hoses or cables, just like you said! I put ISO grips on and also installed my CB, and everything is working great. Thanks again for the very helpful post.

Lenae in ND

 

I finished up last night with swapping the bars. The wrist angle definitely changes. At first, just sitting on the bike, I thought it felt fine. On the way in to work this morning my palm seemed like it felt a little sore. As if I was putting mor pressure on one side of the palm than the other. I'll have to try it out for a few days I guess and see how it goes.

 

JT - HD Not sure about the wiring part of this. Do they just unclip from somewhere. Did you need any extension or any other parts. do the wires end up going into the bars or just as they were before. I really want to add theses bars but not sure if I can do it. The dealer wants way to much and says i need lines and cables. Just a little more info on the wiring part would be great.Thanks Kevin

 

Lines