Thanks JT great write up. Just got quoted $800 to do these exact bars. I will probably go with urethane riser bushing. I've put the pull back on 2 bikes and after 30,000 miles or so the bars seem to get loose.

 

8-9 hours is pretty close if---
it is your first time
you are doing probably the biggest PIA bars ever created(klip hangers)
you are doing 26 other things while apart
almost every item has an issue or needs another part
working in your car hauler
poor vision
etc., at least it will be easier next time.

 

Thank you for this awesome tutorial. Changed mine last weekend after dealer quoted me 6.5 hours labor. Did it myself in just over 2 hours and I internally wired the switches. Showed them a printed copy of this thread and told them they must need some pointers since it takes them so long.

 

I can't even imagine how you could knock out that ENTIRE bar swap in 2 hours...and this was on a batwing?

Mine took the better part of a day (my first time) and internal wiring was a PITA even with 1-1/4 bars.

Whew...you should do bars as a side job...LOL

 

I have change bars several times on my 2004 and when I sold that and installed Helibars on my 2015 - WOW was it easier on the 15 - Harley now adds extra length on wires and IF you do NOT runs the wires INSIDE the bars - an easy switch. Two hours would be fast but IF a person was skilled and had done this before, I would not bet against him

 

I read all the posts on here how easy it was to change bars,watched numerous videos, and all this crap so I decided to do it myself. Well when I got done the Xm radio didn't work ( new antenna) one hand grip hot always, blown fuse, numerous fault codes, bike would run fine then go into limp mode. I took it to the stupid no nothing dealership with their lousy unqualified Tech who redid the whole job in two hours shop time with a warranty. And now it runs like a top. Call me what ever you want I chalk it up to my continuing education program. Pay me now or pay me later. Most of the problems posted on these forums are self inflicted.

 

So, what did the shop find that you screwed up on? Wires can get pinched or plugs can not get seated correctly - **** happens,

and did you run wires outside or inside the bars - this is where people can get into real trouble - have seen lots of posts where people pull to hard..

Glad its all fixed

 

I did the Kromeworks 2+2 which was well documented on here giving me confidence that I could do the simple project. Believe me I can install a faucet and do almost anything around the house but watching the video and then finding the little release clamps and different things you have to do like un pinning the plug which is done easily in the video is not so easy for a first timer I did try to run the wire internally and after wrestling with that for some hours I said screw it and ran it external which really didn't bother me. The dealer did internally wire the bars they charge me for a new throttle grip sensor and a couple of other things that were about $10 a piece not sure what they were. like I say I had to buy a new antenna for the XM I had already bought the wire extensions. I replaced the riser bushing my self. It's all good now but if I knew the dealer was going to charge me two hours of labor to do the job I would've burned rubber over there and saved myself a lot of headache. Thanks 711 its all good!!

 

I have read through all the posts on installing reach handlebars several times and still have a question. On the throttle side JT mentions pulling the wires out just enough to get to the inline connectors. So am I thinking right in that you don't have to take none of the pins apart to pull the throttle side through the handlebars? Getting ready to install the reach handlebars on a 14 street glide and just a little concerned about that one step before proceeding. Thanks in advance for any help!!!

 

You have to depin it to take it out, no way around it.