I was curious how much this would cost to have a dealer do it. About a $130 for the bars but $900 for the labor and cable extensions they said were needed. I think I will be doing this myself.

 

I paid dealer price, $155, for the bars. I figured saving the $800+ the service department wanted was worth staying local. No extras needed. Plenty of slack with the wires and lines. No binding, no re-routing necessary. If you are marginally competent holding a wrench, do it yourself and enjoy the personal satisfaction of saving a pile of cash.

 

CRAP!!!

I just put on a set of Klock Werks Ergo Backs on my 14 Tri glide. Everything went fairly smoothly but then as I was checking things out, I found out that the throttle is physically sticky or has friction. Instead of returning to the idle position from part throttle, it seems to hang up before getting there. If you just let go at half throttle or more, it snaps all the way back, but not if you start from less. Reversing it turns the single cylinder at idle setting just fine, too. No codes or anything, so I didn't break the little green plug.

Obviously I screwed up, but how? Anybody have any experience with these TGS things? It's mechanically binding a bit somehow. Maybe something I needed to do to the bars, smooth over a rough edge or they need reamed out at the end or something? Or maybe I pushed the grip on too hard or put the sensor in too hard?

I'm doing some searching, but if anyone has a quick answer on this or knows of a thread addressing it, please let me know. Thanky.

Oh, and other than that, thanks OP, it went fairly well. No extensions needed, but it took a lot of re-routing of wires and lines to get enough length. However, I did NOT run the wiring interally, just not enough to make it all the way on a few things, particularly the heated grip power lead.

 

For starters you might try loosening the screws on the switch assembly to see if the grip is dragging on the switch housing. Then dig deeper as needed.

 

I noticed the original bars have groves that index the sensor in one position, but the replacement bars have an extra notch that allows it to be installed 180 degrees either way. I put mine back in the exact orientation as original, but don't know if this would make any difference.

 

I took off the brake and switches, still had drag. Popped the end cap off, unplugged and pulled the grip. As I was pulling it, it felt like it was dragging, even when almost fully off. So I started looking; from the end, the end of the handlebars where the notches for the TGS are cut was sticking out a bit between two of the notches. Out beyond the flange on the TGS by maybe 1/32" or so. Out of round; like when the notches were punched, it bent the tubing slightly. Or it flattened out or got whacked or something.

That's where it was dragging. With the grip nearly completely off it wanted to pivot around that point, which confirmed it.

So I wrapped the whole end with masking tape and marked where the one 'tab' was sticking out; it was much more obvious with a layer of tape.

Then I got the Dremel out and ground down the offending area; about 3/8" around from the notch at the end of the metal, and maybe 1/4" inward from that one notch, so I ground away a triangle about that big. There was also a very slight 'wire edge' where the bar had been cut off that looked like it may have been high, so I knocked some of that off, too.

Then pulled the tape and used a 3M green scruffy thing to make sure none of the grinding marks were raised any.

Cleaned everything up thoroughly and tried the grip; MUCH BETTER. Still a touch of drag, so I felt where that was coming from and touched it with the grinding bit again.

A little WD40 and it now feels great! No drag, very smooth. I made sure that the switch pack wasn't rubbing on either face of the retaining ring on the grip.

So, if anyone else has this problem, there's another thing to check.

Hey, it's almost 50 out; time for a test ride! Pics of the new bars later. Thanks, guys!

 

JT
That was a great thread you wrote on installing Pullback bars on FLHTK, with PICs, thanks for that.
I was wanting to know if you also lowered your bikes suspension. If you did, how did you do it? I’m thinking or buying 12” rear shocks for mine. I was in Daytona for bike week and my HD dealer let me take both the reduced reach, and the super reduced reach seat with me and try them out. I liked the way the super reduced seat moved me forward and down, I was much more in control of the bike, but I could not ride for hours sitting on either seat, and my wife complained about both seats too. So I’m back to the original seat and need to reach the handle bars and the ground easier.

 

I installed the same bars ACLaser did, http://www.khromewerks.com/SWEEPER-B...1029-1276.html, (along with heated grips) on my 14 Ultra. I too was concerned with the wrist angle of the HD pullbacks and had tested them out on a limited low. The Khromewerks sweepers are perfect for me. Having the heated grips is a nice bonus too.

The install took about 3 hours and had no issues. I did struggle with the installation instructions on the grips. Even the local dealer told me I needed an additional harness (No, you do not!). It was plug and play.

Thanks to JT and AC for all the info!

 

Outstanding job, thanks for sharing!

 

Your welcome, glad you like them, I really like mine too. Thanks JT
http://www.khromewerks.com/SWEEPER-B...1029-1276.html


https://www.denniskirk.com/khrome-we...rd/5900148.sku
Free Shipping on orders over $89