My 2015 St Glide Special clutch spins when I’m trying to tighten the main shaft nut. Even with the primary locking tool in place. I wonder if I can get away with two box wrenches around the place I’ve marked in the picture?

Edit: I just realized the bike was in neutral.

 

Try put it in a 6th gear and hold the rear brake. But properly assembled unworn clutch is not supposed to slip on the nut tightening at demanded torque level.

 

Good idea. BTW, this large nut is installed before the clutch pack (frictions and plates) so the hub will free-spin on the main shaft if it’s in neutral.

 

Nope. You can remove/install the whole clutch accembly. No need to take the plates out. Only the pressure plate and the rod need to be removed to access the nut. That's why I said if the clutch assembly is good the lock plate is enough to brake or tight the clutch nut.

 

Never thought about it before. My guess is that is the side of the clutch driven by the engine through the chain so it must be free to rotate on the transmission shaft at all times and the plates and spring is what connect to the transmission input shaft. The clutch hub nut is accessible to remove and install if the spring ring retaining the threaded center plate is removed and the plate is removed. No one has asked this question before so it must be that the clutch can be assembled off the bike and once installed, the locking tool can be used to tighten the six bolts to the proper torque. All of this is just a guess on my part as I have never had to disassemble a Harley clutch.

 

I've heard there are special books to read about how to do this or that. People call them "Service Manuals".

 

Just to recap. I removed my inner primary in order to replace the shift lever on the transmission shaft (pawl). I inadvertently put it in Neutral so I couldn't figure out why everything was still spinning even with the locking tool in place.

 

Just happen to have one but have only read the parts I needed for a particular operation. Will you make that same suggestion to the OP since he has taken his clutch apart?

 

It's too bad members feel the need to make snarky comments in forums. I don't get it. As for my situation, I DO have the factory service manual. Maybe I should've figured it out sooner, but a small note in the manual about ensuring the transmission wasn't in Neutral would've saved me a bunch of time.

Another tip could've read, "On hydraulic clutch equipped models, take care not to engage the clutch lever AT ANY TIME the clutch components are removed. This will prevent push-rod movement resulting in possible loss of pressure or vapor lock requiring additional bleeding of the system." Man, I am learning a ton with this DIY.

 

No it's not.. The clutch should be completely assemble except for the throw-out bearing, holder and snapring. You reach the mainshaft nut through the hole with a socket.. Use a jam bar between the sprockets to hold the clutch..