P1510 dtc
#1
P1510 dtc
2014 Ultra Limited — I have a P1510 EFI limited power DTC accompanied by no other codes. I changed a TGS as a long shot and no joy fault is still there. Before I tear into the harness any suggestions? No bars were changed bike is stock TIA
Last edited by Nascar89; 07-17-2023 at 03:30 PM.
#2
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: South Central, PA Near the MD Border
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I am just guessing:
Have you checked your fuel system, pump, hoses fuel filter? May be a fuel issue. Or may not be getting enough fuel
Has the fuel filter been changed? It is 9 years old. How many miles on the bike?
Maybe someone who knows more than I will chime in with better info. Strange no other code were thrown.
Have you checked your fuel system, pump, hoses fuel filter? May be a fuel issue. Or may not be getting enough fuel
Has the fuel filter been changed? It is 9 years old. How many miles on the bike?
Maybe someone who knows more than I will chime in with better info. Strange no other code were thrown.
#3
Unplug and re-plug the Throttle body connector several times, also use a little dielectric grease on the Throttle body connector, that's what I would try first, clear codes and see if they return, if so it could be the Throttle body induction module(It's made onto the Throttle body), it worked on my old 2014 Street Glide, just a bad connection is sometimes all it is.
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Nascar8988 (07-17-2023)
#4
Ecm issue?
I checked the harness for any wire breaks and everything looks great no issues. The only DTC I am getting is the 1510 accompanied by no others. From the manual under ETC management diagnostics -- DID DTC 1510 set with no other DTCS? YES--replace ECM. Has anyone ever ran into this?
#7
How did you find the break? Mine is throwing a 5v reference code and I’m thinking there is a wire break somewhere. Of course an obvious break is easy to find with your eyes, but a wire broken but the insulation is intact is much harder, especially if it sometimes touches and sometimes doesn’t. Would an ohm test help from one end of the wire to the other even if it is slightly touching sometimes? I tried to diy myself and I couldn’t figure it out so I dropped it off at the dealer and I’m now on week 3 and they can’t figure it out either…
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#8
Broken wire
In the photos i posted the blue painters is where the crimp in my wire was. My wire was not broke it had a small crease in the insulation. When I ohmed and moved the wire i would lose continuity. You have to run your fingers down each individual wire. I could feel the partial break inside the insulation
#10
I have found a common issue on my 22FLHXST and my 21 FLH Revival. If I turned the bars to right locked position I noticed that the metal stop on the steering head did not make hard contact. Now when I moved the bars to hard left locked and l felt the stop hit hard like it should.
Why was this happening? I looked at the wiring harness on the right side of the bike and turned the bars to full locked right again. I saw that the right fork makes contact with the wiring harness on both bikes. Knowing that this would lead to damaged wires, I have corrected this on my 22 and 21 by adding a shim to the stop for the full locked right position. Thin shim epoxied in place on the stop.
I have tried going from stop to stop on new bikes 22-23 in showrooms and found it to be consistent, full locked to right and the fork hits against the wiring harness.
Why was this happening? I looked at the wiring harness on the right side of the bike and turned the bars to full locked right again. I saw that the right fork makes contact with the wiring harness on both bikes. Knowing that this would lead to damaged wires, I have corrected this on my 22 and 21 by adding a shim to the stop for the full locked right position. Thin shim epoxied in place on the stop.
I have tried going from stop to stop on new bikes 22-23 in showrooms and found it to be consistent, full locked to right and the fork hits against the wiring harness.
Last edited by Redrodyankneck; 09-09-2024 at 11:56 AM.
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