I'm searching for information regarding which shocks to use on my 17 FLTRU. This is the first time I've considered replacement shocks, but I put enough miles on this bike I really want the smoother ride. What are the opinions on ohlins, legends, and progressive shocks? How about lowering? I'd like to drop the bike's height by about an inch. The new seat I put on the bike is comfortable, but it raises me up just a bit to the point where I'm not as planted on the ground as I'd like.

I realize there are many threads on this topic, but I still can't seem to find information that breaks down the various things to consider when buying new shocks. Any help is appreciated.

 

Many many many threads on this, you may want to do a search, good luck.

 

Personally I would go air ride. Low as you want to be, Stock height if you want. I used the Dirty Air Premium Aluminum shocks. I can ride lowered with a smooth ride or I can raise the bike up with the tour pack on and the wife, smooth as silk ride. The wife likes the fact that when I park I can lower it where she can get on and off easy. Many air ride options out there...

 

The first time I lowered my bike I used 12" air shocks, but didn't like giving up the extra inch of travel. I then went with the 13" Pro Action shocks to get the inch back and a much better ride than the air shocks could ever give. I used the Tamarack 1" lowering blocks from D&K customs to give me back the lower height. Now my wife gets mad at me for not doing this set up the first time for the much better ride for the last 25,000 miles. Now all is good.

 

First point: You can't lower (shorten) your rear shocks w/o losing suspension travel. Suspension travel equates to a better ride. More suspension travel allows suspension the travel needed to smooth the ride.

That said, Barry's suggestion to go air ride is an option. Raise the suspension for riding, lower the suspension for parking lot manuevering. Can't speak to which air ride is best; I run Ohlins with great success.

Second point: There are seats in the aftermarket that are lower & narrower in front that will give you a comfortable ride while providing long distance comfort. I ride a Danny Gray Air Hawk 2 Up Long Haul. Provides comfort, on the fly adjustability & gives a lowered stance for better control when stopped. Didn't buy it for the lowered stance in parking lots. Bought it for the comfort it provides with long days in the saddle. The lowered stance was a bonus.

Decide which is more important. Everything is a compromise. What works for some is junk for others.

My advice is longer suspension travel with a good quality adjustable shock (ProAction, Ohlins, JRI, etc) & then a DG Air Hawk seat & built up boot soles if you need them to feel comfortable sitting still. Reason is most of my bike time is sitting in the saddle cranking miles, not waddling around in parking lots.

 

As some others mentioned I would look at lower seats before I went with shorter shocks. A couple of things to consider. Quality aftermarket coil over shocks set up correctly will have about an inch of sag in them so standard length shocks will sit a little lower than stock. There are also lower blocks that you can use. DK Customs sells them. They will allow you to lower the bike keeping the shock length the same. Check out their web site for shock reviews as they have a pretty good write up on the subject.

 

You can do better than all 3 of the choices you mentioned. Take a look at this Rear Suspension Report LINK. You can also maintain the same suspension travel and lower the rear by 1" using These.

You can improve your ride quality with an upgrade to the front suspension also. See this Front Suspension Report LINK. It is sometimes amazing how much smoother the rear suspension feels, once the front suspension is upgraded.

Feel free to call or write with any questions.

Oh, and below is a video showing how real shocks are supposed to work...which is a huge improvement over OEM HD shocks. Yeah, it's a trike, but still gives you an idea.

 

Progressive 944's are an inch shorter in length but still give you the same stroke as a stock 13" shock. This lowers you without giving up shock travel.

 

I'm using the 13" Pro Action shocks with the 1" lowering blocks. When using a sissy bar, the shocks (when compressed) come in contact with the bottom of the sissy bar side plate. Here's just a quick picture I had on my phone to give you an idea. Sissy bar isn't fully latched in. I was doing measurements the other night to fix the issue. Sissy bar in picutre is my spare no HD branded one. I took a grinder to my HD one the other night. Currently at the powder coater getting redone. Hoping it fixes the issue.

 

Yes, this is sometimes an issue with the bulky quick-release hardware, not normally an issue with fixed mounting. Copy & pasted from instructions-

When mounting these shocks on 2-wheel Touring Models with or without lowering blocks, make sure docking hardware for sissy bars and Tour-Paks, and any other add-ons, do not come in contact with the shock body when the shocks is fully compressed. This is usually not an issue, but with some quick-release set-ups there can be contact. You can use spacers between the shocks and the frame, or modify the docking hardware if more clearance is needed.