With all these issues between brakes and sumping... Don't you just want to run down to the dealer, and spend money on a new Harley? I blame these issues on the people who had them, who turned around and rewarded Harley for it by buying a new bike. Why would Harley fix any issue when the Harley riding public rewards them for this behavior?

 

Hey, it's the MoCo. They seem to go out of their way to design junk - then they have it made in China, just to put the icing on the cake.

Insane!

 

Yeah, I remember two plus years go when only a couple of us were posting about this. Despite the NHTSA investigation and a few forum members confirming the failure, the doubters were publicly displaying their ignorance.

.

 

Yep, the fanboyz on this site kinda remind me of folks who voted for the current Prez, but even more blind to the facts.

Hard to believe that's possible, but there ya have it.

 

Some have suggested that cycling the ABS on startup is why cars don't have the problem. Suggestion :--- after making sure the unit operates properly, activate the ABS once a month in a parking lot, while the MOCO comes up with a software fix to the startup code in the bike chassis cpu.

 

And yet you keep buying them?

 

I cycle my ABS every ride, twice on each wheel. I also change my fluid every twelve months and cycle the ABS ten times per wheel right after.

 

how do you engage abs every time you ride. i'm not being a wise guy, i am just looking for an easier way to cycle mine.

 

I didn't take it as a wise guy question at all. HOW you initially apply either brake is a big factor in whether a tire will skid/engage ABS. Fast/hard applications will usually do it, no matter what the surface. I think ABS has robbed the average rider in knowing what the limit of braking traction is. Four times a year I train on a closed course and braking is job one. It allows me to find the tipping point where ABS engages (on my touring bike) or wheel lock up on my non ABS Super Glide. Knowing that exact point allows me to stop in the shortest distance (excluding reaction time).

You can also use road conditions to help engage ABS. Any set of bumps, especially pavement ripples, are great; apply the brakes hard and you'll feel the bike release the brakes (Harleys are really pronounced because of the poor excuse for a tone ring in the wheel bearings). Of course wet pavement, sand, gravel and grass all make for a good way to engage ABS but you really want to be able to do it on dry pavement or concrete (and then know how to NOT do it so you can stop quicker). Additional training when the roads are wet will allow you know how much braking is available when traction is reduced.