Heated Grips Question
#21
10-02-2017, 11:04 AM
On my 2014 Limited, I replaced the original heated grips with the CVO (internally wired) slipstream ones. Left is part #56100097A and Right is part #5610096. Everything was plug and play. Replacing wasn't too bad. Hooked a string to left wire and pulled it through when I removed the original grip. Then, I just pulled the new wire down through the bar. Lubricated with Windex. The right side was easy and just required the new grip's two-prong plug to be plugged into the throttle sensor's end.
Looks like I could change out the right one without much issue but what did you have to take off to get at the hole in the handlebars in the middle? Some videos show taking only the front cowling off, some show taking off all the bolts for the batwing as well and some have both of those with having to remove the inside switch housing the fork lock **** is part of.
Or pay the dealership $250 or so to do it. Sounds like something I wouldn't mind doing but I'd prefer knowing how much I'll have to break the bike down to do it.
Thanks!
#22
10-02-2017, 11:49 AM
I've got a CVO and thought the heated grips were burnt out so I started looking on replacing them. $380 or so for the left one, $130 or so for the right one.
Looks like I could change out the right one without much issue but what did you have to take off to get at the hole in the handlebars in the middle? Some videos show taking only the front cowling off, some show taking off all the bolts for the batwing as well and some have both of those with having to remove the inside switch housing the fork lock **** is part of.
Or pay the dealership $250 or so to do it. Sounds like something I wouldn't mind doing but I'd prefer knowing how much I'll have to break the bike down to do it.
Thanks!
Looks like I could change out the right one without much issue but what did you have to take off to get at the hole in the handlebars in the middle? Some videos show taking only the front cowling off, some show taking off all the bolts for the batwing as well and some have both of those with having to remove the inside switch housing the fork lock **** is part of.
Or pay the dealership $250 or so to do it. Sounds like something I wouldn't mind doing but I'd prefer knowing how much I'll have to break the bike down to do it.
Thanks!
#23
10-02-2017, 02:37 PM
Just changed out my second set of P&A Catalog flame grips with the Airflow CVO version this weekend.
You do have to split the fairing to get access to the center hole. I have Wild1’s bars with internal wiring. I expected to have to pull the switch wiring and re-fish everything together but I was able to pull the new wires through with the switch wiring in place. I did have to make a jumper harness for the interconnect wires because they both had male ends on them. I must have ordered the wrong year grips or something as MOCO changed the TBW harness in 2014.
They work great now. Can’t stand them past 2 or they are too hot.
You do have to split the fairing to get access to the center hole. I have Wild1’s bars with internal wiring. I expected to have to pull the switch wiring and re-fish everything together but I was able to pull the new wires through with the switch wiring in place. I did have to make a jumper harness for the interconnect wires because they both had male ends on them. I must have ordered the wrong year grips or something as MOCO changed the TBW harness in 2014.
They work great now. Can’t stand them past 2 or they are too hot.
#24
10-26-2017, 09:42 AM
Cruiser
Kicking around the idea of more comfortable bars on my '17 Limited, picking up plenty of tips on the forum. One big question remains though. How does the left heated grip come off the bar? It feels like it's glued on, and I don't want to destroy that. And, with the front and rear linked brake system, can you still gather up enough slack to keep from having to use extensions ?
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