Want louder pipes without breaking the bank.
#11
Ride Safe!
#12
Lots of guys do it with a long paddle bit on a drill and a long handled screw driver. Once you break the center honeycomb structure up use the screw driver to pry the sides away from the pipe and pull it out. Suck the remaining shavings out with a shop vac. $0 dollars just a little time.
#13
Drilling out the cat is easy you can do it yourself. I work slow and did mine in less than 3 hrs. The BTS ratio (Beer to time spent ratio) was 4 beers. If ur drinking a lite beer I would place the BTS at a six pack. Get the largest paddle bit that will fit...not the 1 1/2" they show on you tube. I think the one I had was 1 15/16". Unless you can find a really long bit...you will need a bit extension. Make sure the bit is locked in before you start and also hold it to the outside of your pipes first and wrap tape around the bit to mark the maximum depth you want the bit to go. You don't want to go too deep and damage ur O2 sensor. As far as the debris issue....I fired my bike up before re-installing my mufflers and blew out all the chips/dust that way with no ill effects. That being said sucking them out first with a shop vac sure wouldn't hurt.
Pls beware if you remove the cat and later plan to run a V&H FP3 (or probably any other tuner that utilizes Data from the O2 sensors)the auto tune feature will not work correctly. Doesn't mean the FP3 won't work only that the Auto Tune is unreliable. The canned maps still work fine. Just about any non factory header pipe would remedy the auto tune issue.
Good luck
Pls beware if you remove the cat and later plan to run a V&H FP3 (or probably any other tuner that utilizes Data from the O2 sensors)the auto tune feature will not work correctly. Doesn't mean the FP3 won't work only that the Auto Tune is unreliable. The canned maps still work fine. Just about any non factory header pipe would remedy the auto tune issue.
Good luck
Last edited by sirrat007; 08-24-2017 at 08:55 PM.
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