Lets say the clutch and rear brake are fried, what would I be looking at cost wise to have those fixed at a decent independent shop? Is there anything I can look for to tell? Will the clutch just be very squishy or what? What is a SE clutch? Appreciate the help, sorry I'm new and these questions may not be worded the best. Really appreciate the help!

 

Just tell the dealer if they are, and have them fix it. They will do it to close a deal.

 

I honestly have no idea how to tell. Wouldn't they have been inspected /repaired before going on the floor for sale?

 

Ask for some kind of short term warranty, maybe 30 days.

 

3k miles and no street use? That's 3k HARD miles just doing maneuvers around a parking lot through cones ... I would say no thanks if it were me. You can guarantee that bike was hammered, especially the clutch and rear brake like already mentioned above.

I would also wonder why it was turned back in so soon.

 

Hell, yes. I don't care about mileage; and I want the bike for exactly what they used it for, so the clutch and rear brake condition don't bother me either.

 

I would not give up on it that easily. Clutches and brakes are just wear and tear parts. He should try and factor in some type of warranty from dealer. I am guessing Harley won't sell a service warranty because it was a PD bike.

 

First, the '14 and up bikes have the new bag lid design and they look the same as stock.

Second, if you want to have a tourpak on the back you can mount it on the radio rack. If you want to have configuration flexibility, however, it can get expensive.

Third you have to want to ride on the police seat with no passenger or that can get expensive.

Fourth, you get the speedo where it should be mounted and all of your sort of digital readouts are easier to view than stock.

Fifth, if it is a stunt bike your floor boards and engine guards will be worn and the clutch and brakes will be abused and maybe adjusted for their liking but not for real road use. it would be hard to really harm them in 3k miles, however. My clutch adjustment was waaaaayyyy off.

In case you don't know, all touring bikes can be built to be one of the other touring versions (I don't call them models because there is no difference other than cost) if you want to spend the money.

It is likely that you will see the outlines or color difference in the tank paint where the decals were originally applied. There will be additional electrical connectors that won't be used. There will be no HD tank badge unless the dealer applies one.

 

Former motorcycle trooper here, so I can tell you exactly what this bike has been through in 3000 miles. It takes a while to get the hang of making those slow tight turns, so it has probably been dropped a lot; look for body and engine guard damage. As others have mentioned, the clutch and rear brakes will have wear. Actually the front brakes will have wear too from threshold braking practice. The clutch has probably been replaced at least once if not more. Try to test ride it and make sure the clutch isn't slipping. The floorboards will be ground down on the outside edge due to dragging them. The engine has probably been lugged. It has been accelerated to red line and threshold braked repeatedly. It probably has not idled for long periods if it's been used for training. The engine has been ridden hot due to a lot of slow riding. Depending on the type training the department does, it may have been ridden over some fairly rough terrain like riding down steps or trial riding. Check the suspension. Aside from all that I can almost guarantee it has been meticulously maintained.

With that in mine, as long as it's in good shape, I'd buy it. I would try to negotiate the price a little.

 

Bought mine about 5 years ago. 1996 FLHTP with 15k on it. It had just been retired from a local police department. Never had any issues with it.