I've been digging on the forum a bit and have run across some conflicting results ---- so I figured I would start a new thread with specifics.

I have a 2014 TriGlide. I went out and bought the lighted switches and chrome switch housings.

In order to install the housings; I have to remove the old ones (obviously). The problem is that I have seen a few threads where people have spoken about replacing the switch housing and they weren't too favorable on the amount of work involved. One guys said it was 2 hours he would have much rather paid the dealer to do.

But others have said that the actual switch change (from unlighted to lighted) was extremely easy.

So I am asking any one who has done this if it is as simple as it sounds? Or is there something more detailed about the housing removal that I am missing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Looking forward to getting the lowdown on the switch change too!

 

It's very easy. The toughest part is removing the trigger finger switch cap. You think that you are going to break it, you're not. Gently lift it up and slide it to the left to remove.

Here are the instructions for those of you who do not have the parts already.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/app-c...ts/-J05803.PDF

 

It took me less then 1/2 to do both sides. Like A206Driver said getting the trigger finger caps off was the hardest part.

 

So I have to remove the two screws from the clutch and two from the brake?

In order to remove the housings?

Jim

 

Like the others said, its a pretty painless task if you are half way competent with tools & fixing things. The levers come off by removing the e-clip underneath the pin on each lever.

 

Easy job. You do have to remove the levers as well, or risk breaking the switches themselves. I've removed them many times, after you pop out the trigger switch, best way is to loosen the captive screws in the housings, then while holding both the housing and the lever assembly at once, unscrew the lever brackets. The leve and back half of the housing will loosen themselves with a slight manipulation to slide the lever off the switch. Otherwise you need a shim. NOTHING needs to be forced except the trigger switch.. If you're forcing the two assemblies apart after unscrewing, you're doing it wrong. After that, lay the loose hydraulics levers down, just leave em hanging... Switch housings come off, you'll see an e-clip that holds the unit to the bar. Small flat screwdriver will pop that loose, then the assembly itself will pop off the bars via a circular retaining spring, which is part of the assembly. Now you have to separate the plugs, that small screwdriver again is handy. Unplug then, 1 plug in left side, 2 on the right side, and work the wiring harness out of its groove. Viola, they're off. Reverse the process with the new switch packs.

 

Thanks to everyone who helped.

It really was simpler than I thought. I used only a single Torx 25 for the job.

The first step is to remove the two screws on each side that hold the lever assemblies to the handlebars. These must be removed in order for the housings to be able to be removed.

No need to remove the levers from the assembly; or to remove the little clips that hold the levers on.

After the lever assemblies are removed, I just let them hang down on their own.

Then remove the two screws in each housing. The Odometer button slides off; but it is *really* tough to pull out - so be careful. After that the housings will simply slide off with no issues.

The switches literally snap in place. Once they open up you simply unplug the cables from each and then plug the cables into the new switches.

After snapping the new switches over the handlebars, slide the housings on. Do not completely tighten the screws just yet. Leave them lose enough to be able to easily move the housings up and down.

Now reattach the levers again to the handlebars. Again, do not tighten just yet.

Now sit on the bike and adjust the levers up and down until you are satisfied with the angle of the switches. Me personally - I adjusted mine so that the top of both the brake and clutch assemblies were level and not tilted. Then crank the screws down to keep everything in place.

I do agree with something someone else said in another thread; I believe the toque value they give you will strip the screws - so be careful.

Lastly; just slide the odometer button back on.

 

I had no idea that lighted switches existed until I stumbled across this thread. Now I know what my next project is going to be.. Thanks for the information.

 

Much easier on Rishmore bikes with the connectors at the switches.