Heated grips won't stop heating after bar swap
#1
Heated grips won't stop heating after bar swap
So this weekend was GORGEOUS weather. And I decided to put the 12" LA Choppers Twin Peaks bars on my new-to-me 2015 Ultra Limited...because why not waste the first real nice riding weekend with the bike torn down?
At any rate, the install is finished and yes- internally wiring the Twin Peaks is a PITA since I had to use the green connector and have heated grips. LA Choppers is stingy with the width of their wire openings, though the length is fine- but getting the green TGS plug and the heated grip plugs into the openings wasn't much fun. And the 90 degree bend at the top of the bars is just about where the TGS connector seems to want to live. Ugh.
Eventually I get everything wired back up, but during the internal wiring process, the end cap and ring on the left hand grip popped off the end of the grip because evidently LA Choppers never planned on anyone using factory heated grips- the fit for the guts of the heated grip was SNUG. So of course I have no clue what actual orientation everything had when the end cap popped off, and now the 'indicator' mark on the grip points to either nothing or 6. That's the only way I could line up the by-now worn down inner points that lined up with openings on the end of the grip itself and the temp dial cap has to fit into that ring with it's OWN wings/openings that must line up to fit 'into" the ring at the end of the grip. Then the temp cap has a D-shaped plastic "pin" it rides on, so IT is all a very specific arrangement. I wonder if the guts of the grip are 180 degrees out or something, but the grip will only fit into the housing one way as well (the groove that it sits in to hold it on the bar is on the bottom half of the grip's mounting ring.)
The problem I'm running into now is that the grips never seem to go OFF. They're either on some or all (it seems- there's no indicator or light or anything, but they go from warm to hot, and the bike is not out in the sun)- there's no "off". I didn't unpin the connectors from the left hand grip, they are intact as they came off the bike. I DID unpin the connector on the TGS harness and I'm fairly certain I got the pins in the right location on the 2 place connector (pin 1 is White, pin 2 is Black) from the right grip, but I can't tell which side is supposed to be pin 1 without getting back into the fairing, and I won't be doing that until Tuesday or so. The pair of white/black wires with the female connector from the left side didn't get moved in any way. BTW: the service manual is useless: it makes no mention of what color wires go where to which plug or of any special orientation of the left grip, and on the right grip the plug has pretty much only one way to connect to the end of the TGS. I also can't find any troubleshooting the grips in there. I don't have an electrical manual; not sure if it would be in there or not. I can check my '11 manual, but I'm not sure it's a fair comparison.
Any ideas? I'll look again at the Owner's Manual and Service Manual for the fuse they're on so I can disconnect them for now, but I'd love to know what could be causing them to run continuously. I'd expect a damaged wire would render them inoperative totally.
At any rate, the install is finished and yes- internally wiring the Twin Peaks is a PITA since I had to use the green connector and have heated grips. LA Choppers is stingy with the width of their wire openings, though the length is fine- but getting the green TGS plug and the heated grip plugs into the openings wasn't much fun. And the 90 degree bend at the top of the bars is just about where the TGS connector seems to want to live. Ugh.
Eventually I get everything wired back up, but during the internal wiring process, the end cap and ring on the left hand grip popped off the end of the grip because evidently LA Choppers never planned on anyone using factory heated grips- the fit for the guts of the heated grip was SNUG. So of course I have no clue what actual orientation everything had when the end cap popped off, and now the 'indicator' mark on the grip points to either nothing or 6. That's the only way I could line up the by-now worn down inner points that lined up with openings on the end of the grip itself and the temp dial cap has to fit into that ring with it's OWN wings/openings that must line up to fit 'into" the ring at the end of the grip. Then the temp cap has a D-shaped plastic "pin" it rides on, so IT is all a very specific arrangement. I wonder if the guts of the grip are 180 degrees out or something, but the grip will only fit into the housing one way as well (the groove that it sits in to hold it on the bar is on the bottom half of the grip's mounting ring.)
The problem I'm running into now is that the grips never seem to go OFF. They're either on some or all (it seems- there's no indicator or light or anything, but they go from warm to hot, and the bike is not out in the sun)- there's no "off". I didn't unpin the connectors from the left hand grip, they are intact as they came off the bike. I DID unpin the connector on the TGS harness and I'm fairly certain I got the pins in the right location on the 2 place connector (pin 1 is White, pin 2 is Black) from the right grip, but I can't tell which side is supposed to be pin 1 without getting back into the fairing, and I won't be doing that until Tuesday or so. The pair of white/black wires with the female connector from the left side didn't get moved in any way. BTW: the service manual is useless: it makes no mention of what color wires go where to which plug or of any special orientation of the left grip, and on the right grip the plug has pretty much only one way to connect to the end of the TGS. I also can't find any troubleshooting the grips in there. I don't have an electrical manual; not sure if it would be in there or not. I can check my '11 manual, but I'm not sure it's a fair comparison.
Any ideas? I'll look again at the Owner's Manual and Service Manual for the fuse they're on so I can disconnect them for now, but I'd love to know what could be causing them to run continuously. I'd expect a damaged wire would render them inoperative totally.
#2
The touring models electrical diagnostics manual has the diagrams and troubleshooting info, separate from the service manual. For the '14s it's 99479-14.
The section does have a wiring diagram with colors, but there is no guidance for the circuit being stuck on. Just for if it doesn't work at all.
I had a heck of a time getting both grips on a set of Ergo Backs; turns out there was a burr on the TGS sensor notch on the right, and a lip/ridge on the end of the right one where the tubing was cut. Me and Mr. Dremel had to take care of that to get them on. Plus the throttle wouldn't spring return all the way back.
Just guessing, but it sounds like the control switch is shorted out, or mechanically just can't move far enough down to off for some reason. Anything not connected would make them not work at all.
The section does have a wiring diagram with colors, but there is no guidance for the circuit being stuck on. Just for if it doesn't work at all.
I had a heck of a time getting both grips on a set of Ergo Backs; turns out there was a burr on the TGS sensor notch on the right, and a lip/ridge on the end of the right one where the tubing was cut. Me and Mr. Dremel had to take care of that to get them on. Plus the throttle wouldn't spring return all the way back.
Just guessing, but it sounds like the control switch is shorted out, or mechanically just can't move far enough down to off for some reason. Anything not connected would make them not work at all.
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vhmike73 (04-17-2016)
#4
FYI- on the 2015 Limited, the heated grips ARE on the P&A accessory circuit, so pulling that fuse kills all the accessory outlets and such on the bike. These are FACTORY INSTALLED heated grips that come stock on the Limited, not add-on P&A parts. I did find the grip part number on the Ronnie's microfiche site. The cost for the left grip/element is $102 through Surdyke or Boardtracker so if I must, I can order that and just re-wire the left side of the bars.
I'm curious as to what effect (if any) reversing the wires in the right hand grip's plug might have. If the wires were swapped in the plug, the P&A Power wire from the left grip controller would be connected to the ground side of the right grip wiring, and the Ground wire connected to the power side of the right grip wiring. I can't fathom how that would cause my issue, but I will be double-checking that plug since it's the only one I de-pinned/re-pinned.
If I can't chase the fault easily (and soon!) I think I may just disconnect the grips and go without heat until I feel like buying a new left hand side and doing the swap. Heck, I might even yank these grips right off and install the Get-A-Grips I have on the shelf until later in the year. Still, this is infuriating given that it all worked when it came apart!
I'm curious as to what effect (if any) reversing the wires in the right hand grip's plug might have. If the wires were swapped in the plug, the P&A Power wire from the left grip controller would be connected to the ground side of the right grip wiring, and the Ground wire connected to the power side of the right grip wiring. I can't fathom how that would cause my issue, but I will be double-checking that plug since it's the only one I de-pinned/re-pinned.
If I can't chase the fault easily (and soon!) I think I may just disconnect the grips and go without heat until I feel like buying a new left hand side and doing the swap. Heck, I might even yank these grips right off and install the Get-A-Grips I have on the shelf until later in the year. Still, this is infuriating given that it all worked when it came apart!
#5
Sounds to me like you reinstalled the left hand end cap ring in the wrong place, so that when its at "0" its not actually at "0" on the inside.. sounds like youre at level 1, and I say that because I have heated grips from harley and level 2 is really warm all by itself, so if your cap is in the wrong position and you turn it "on", youre already at level 2, and putting it at 1-2 according to the cap would put it at 2-3 internally which is REALLY warm... ive never been able to comfortably turn mine up past 2.
Ive been trying to think of what could cause that, as I wired mine internally as well with new KST Mayhems, and Ive done that TWICE, so I know what youre talking about with the green plug and how difficult it was.... I cant think of anything else that would make it act that way; including the plug on the TGS. I also dont think having that backwards would have this kind of an effect on the heat.
Ive been trying to think of what could cause that, as I wired mine internally as well with new KST Mayhems, and Ive done that TWICE, so I know what youre talking about with the green plug and how difficult it was.... I cant think of anything else that would make it act that way; including the plug on the TGS. I also dont think having that backwards would have this kind of an effect on the heat.
#6
Are BOTH grips on all the time or just the throttle side? I got one plug that crosses over reversed with another that will plug in together and it was so freaking hot I thought it was going to melt the grip before I got back to the house. (ya, don't say it...I did have them marked and the frigg'n tape marker came off in all the hubbub...)
Study the schematic very close...it is a bit of a curiosity how they work but just make sure you didn't swap something. Way easier than pulling the bars again.
Study the schematic very close...it is a bit of a curiosity how they work but just make sure you didn't swap something. Way easier than pulling the bars again.
#7
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