In my service manual (2011 Touring), to remove the front engine mount:

It says to place a jack under the oil pan and use a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan to distribute pressure across the length of the casting. Raise the jack until firm contact is made with the bottom of the oil pan.

Why does one place the jack under the oil pan and not the engine case?

 

I'm thinking cause the oil pan is relatively cheap and can be replaced. The engine cases.... not so much. If you damaged the engine cases it would be a full teardown and rebuild.

 

I guess I'm not seeing how jacking up the oil pan really relieves the pressure/force on the motor mounts. Seems like that has the potential to cause more damage. So basically you are saying that jacking up the transmission will lift up and support the engine (via the four bolts)?

 

I remember reading on this Forum, 5 to 8 years ago the guys were replacing the rubber
mount with the ones from a Buell, as the mount had a stiffer rubber compound.
That was supposed to help stop engine vibration, I don't know if that holds true for today.
I know the Car and Truck guys use polyurethane bushings now, not rubber, as they hold up
better & longer than rubber.

 

Not to high jack the thread but I have a question.And thanks for the diagram and torque specs.I have a 2016 road glide and did my 1000 mile service.Is it normal to have a slight vibration under almost wide open throttle and then it's smooth when I reach cruising speed?I retorque the engine mounts and everything was tight.Thanks

 

I have replaced the front motor mounts on 2 bikes. A 2009 FLHTP with 5,000 miles and a 2010 with 1,100 miles.

I had low rpm vibration whenever slowing down and some excessive vibration at around 2900 rpm when I would rev up thru the gears.

In both cases it helped.

My 2016 FLTRU is displaying these same issues and I am going to re-check front assembly torques and possible replace the mounts as well.

 

I've got the same thing going on at the moment. I know it's not the crank or anything in the primary as I've measured everything twice.

Question, did a dealership replace yours (covered) or did you just buy them on your own and install them?

 

I just got back from the dealer.

I told the service manager what I was going to do ...

He said ... At the 1,600 km check they took the boards off and checked the mount torques. and the crank bolts as well.

But if I wanted to check them again... go ahead.

If you are still having issues then he would find a way to have the mounts changed under warranty. He did not want me to replace them myself for warranty reasons. I had (from day one) mentioned my issues and they kept saying... "Its normal"... but I know it isn't. I've had to many bikes to let that one slide.

So I will be checking the torques and seeing what's what.

The mounts are $49 each (CDN) but I am tempted to just do it myself as I have little faith in the Dealership that does not even tighten bolts on a PDI and when I had the 1,600 km done they left the right floor board so loose it rattled... you could wiggle it up and down with one finger.

But the mounts are on backorder or no one has them and they say it could take up to 3 weeks to get them???

Either way... they are aware of the issue and that's OK for now. At least I have a promise that they would replace them under warranty if I pushed the issue.

I was actually thinking of going this route..

http://glide-pro.com/shop/front-moto...-2009-present/