Try draining all the oil into whatever large container you use and when the oil has drained out tilt the bike to the other side for 20 seconds (easy now) and when you tilt it back, more oil will drain out...that's about all the extra oil I drain in a oil change.
As I said earlier, I think it may be good to use this system on a bike that was to be stored for a long time or had some big mechanical issue that meant metal shavings or bits got in the oil. Maybe even on a bike that hadn't had an oil change in 15,000 miles, yes, they exist.

 

Not quite. First, this has nothing to do with the transmission or primary, so mentioning the lube for those orifices just confuses the topic at hand.
All you're really doing is is putting a temporary bypass on the oil filter and pumping in clean oil via a fitting screwed into the verboten "Do no remove under penalty of law" tapered plug hole, pushing dirty oil out the drain hole in the oil pan. The clean oil you pump in stays in the engine, so you don't use any more oil than the refill capacity. That's how it works for some bikes, other types of bike may use different parts and procedures.

Apparently the oil in my Harley doesn't all drain to the bottom like it seems to in the cars and trucks I've done oil changes on over the past decades.

All I can go by is personal observation on my 2014 Limited. Before I tried using the Scavenger I never needed to add the full four quarts called for in an oil and filter change, was closer to three and a half quarts.
With the Scavenger, I now add the 4 quarts. When I watched as I pumped in clean oil, way more than 3 ounces of dirty oil was pushed out, but I didn't measure it. It definately was not the clean oil I pushed in.

What I don't know is how beneficial it actually is, but if the person who changes the oil in my car and truck told me they left a pint or two of used oil in the crankcase, I wouldn't be very happy.

The device is easy to use, doesn't add much more than 10 minutes max to the time it takes to change the oil, and the fresh oil stays amber colored longer than it did before I used the Scavenger.

To me it's worth it. I've spent more money than this on stuff that turned out to be less useful.

 

When did they start removing the sump plug to install an oil temp sensor? Usually it's in the oil pan. This new?

 

So, how many people use an oil scavenger type setup on their cars or trucks??

Oh??

Why not??

 

Some of the old timers on this forum will remember, if they think heard enough, back in the day the procedure for car oil changes, was to change your oil filter every other oil change. I never did this, i was already greasy, so another dollar for the filter and .75 for a quart of oil seemed logical to me. I didn't have to jump thru any hoopes or buy any gizmos etc., but i did change the filter with every oil change.

But a lot of car mfg prescribed to that every other oil change , sounds crazy right.

Some time maybe late 60's or 70's Fram's famous commercial " You can pay me now or pay me later" started up and i think that and the low cost of filters, extra charges, kick backs, common sense, whatever, caused even car mfg to start changing the filter with each oil change. Most motorists never knew better or loss any sleep over the dirty oil, oil filter in their trusty Studebaker, Desoto, Kaiser Frasier etc. and they just drove 150,000 miles on them without much or any issues.

This procedure on the HD, removing the Verboten tapered plug for maintenance, i don't like that. I'm tuned, pipes blah blah, and am not worried about my dealers support for warranty etc., but leaking at the plug, cracked case, is a concern of mine. It is a different kind of plug, not designed to be removed every 3 thousand miles. If it is so good a procedure then why don't mfg's get behind it by offering their own solution. Obviously, their studies etc. do not show that the few ounces left in the engine are a problem.

So i'm going to continue the traditional procedure (not the scavenger), changing the engine at 2500 miles and the trans and primary at 5K, my own numbers, because to me, shorter interval on 95% of the oil makes more of difference than leaving a few delueted ounces of oil in the engine.

 

But it's not 100%. That would assume a totally dry engine. One of the properties of oil is that it leaves a thin film of oil on all the internal parts it touches. Better pour some gas or another solvent in if you want close to 100%.

 

My mistake LP. It's the pipe plug in the pan, not the sump. In either case, I'm not for removing and installing a tapered pipe plug every oil change. On Dynas you have to cut and remove the oil inlet hose and install their hose and fixture with two clam shell halves that have springs around them; no clamp as there was from the factory. Not something I want in a pressurized circuit.

That said, there are those on this forum that I listen to very closely, you're one of them. If you think something like that is a good idea, I'm all ears.

 

OK OK OK....99% vs 80% Still good in my world!

 

I appreciate it. Just checking. I haven't installed one for a year or so.

Yeah, those older systems were a pain. It was the same on Touring too until someone (I think around here) said, hey you know you can just install that thingahmahbob in the oil pan with this other thing I got at ace hardware. Soon after HD changed it to the oil pan as well. Proof that even the Moco listens - sometimes.

 

use good oil and change often, it's all your bike needs.