Hi All,


Story's way to long to put here, but I'm stripping everything I can before I take my bike to the dealer for a transmission case replacement.


I have a 2014 Street Glide Special. I've gotten the primary cover and chain tensioner removed. The fasteners on my/our bikes are different than I've seen on any YouTube video. The fastener in the crankshaft appears to be a very large Torx socket holding a HUGE hex nut in place. I can't see anything behind the snap-ring inside the clutch, as I haven't removed it yet.


Can anyone point me to an instructional video of a late-model touring bike for this procedure, or shed some light on it for me? I'm tempted to leave everything right where it is and let the dealer take these parts off unless it's easier than I'm seeing...


Thanks in advance.

 

This isn't hard to do but it takes a little explaining which if you had the shop manual would eliminate having to have someone type it all out.

In short you need a T70 torx, a primary locking tool, a breaker bar and some muscle. Loosen, but don't fully remove it yet.

Then you need to remove that snap ring on the clutch, take out the spacer/bearing etc, and fit whatever the size socket it is that is in there but remember to go backwards as it's reverse thread.

After you've loosened both fasteners you can slide both the comp and clutch out at the same time.

Maybe Vernal (a member) will be kind enough to paste photos of the removal procedures straight from the manual into this thread for you. He's a cool guy like that.

 

No video... but here's what you need to do.

On the compensator end, remove the torx bolt that holds the comp assy in place. Use a wrench on the large hex to react the loosening force of the torx bolt.

On the clutch end, remove the snap ring and the clutch rod and steel plate. Once you have that removed you will see the nut that holds the clutch assembly in place. Remove that nut (left hand thread).

Now you can slide the compensator, clutch assembly, and primary chain from their respective shafts.

Done!

 

This is a warrantied repair? Let the dealer do it.

 

It's not a warrantied repair. It's a VERY expensive learning lesson, and for anyone considering S&S head pipes, I strongly recommend you do not buy them.


I purchased the new head pipes last fall at a Harley dealer and had them installed there. I was unaware of the HORRIBLY engineered support bracket for the crossover pipe. Three of the four bolts sheered off in the transmission case and are impossible to extract.


So, I got with the head mechanic at my local dealer yesterday and he helped me with the parts list and graciously offered to do the swap for "actual labor" cost. The more I can do myself the better. Now that I know that all I need is the T70 torx, I'm done with everything except the monster nut that holds the transmission shaft. That tool is $170, so that's where I'll leave it for the pros.

 

So, the dealer installed your pipes & the bolts broke off at there mounting points. Did you ask the dealership to stand behind there work? Did the dealership tell you before they installed them, that it could be a problem? I'd ask a few question first. Buy a HD Service Manual, the best money you could spend. Good luck.

 

I thought that, also. The dealer in my area will warranty the part if you bought the part from them and the dealer installed it.

 

First, get a factory service manual for your bike. A parts manual is also very helpful with its exploded drawings of various assemblies.

Second, follow the instructions EXACTLY - including installing a new bolt whenever you re-install the comp after removal. A new bolt is about 6 bucks, so it's no biggie to do this.

That big nut on the comp is there for the tool at the assembly plant to hold onto while the comp bolt is torqued. A locking tool (bar) is used to lock everything up when you're working on the primary yourself. I made one out of a piece of 1/4" chromoly steel plate and saved a few $$$.

You also want to use a high-quality torx tool for the bolt. The manual recommends one by OTC, which is what I used with perfect results.

Good luck,

JP

 

Harbor freight has the T70 torx they work fine and the impact set was 30.00 bucks it is a bitch to break loose I use a large crescent wrench to hold the comp. As others have mentioned remember the clutch nut is a left hand thread.

Bob

 

Lots of S&S head pipes out there. First I've heard of this problem. Also you might want to contact S&S as they are a good company that generally stand behind their products.