I figured that so I ran two sets of string on the right side; one out the end of the bars for the TBW and the other where the control wires feed in on the underside of the bars.

 

There is a green plug for TBW on the Rushmores. Definitely there when I did my 10 MBB's on my 15 SGS.

I ran the TBW cable first with the green plug intact (silicone spray was the key). My advice is to take your time and do the wire pull somewhere comfortable. I don't have a workbench so I used the kitchen table with some towels everywhere.

Good luck and let us know how it goes please.

 

If you watch the video from "ride it wrench it", he will show you how to take apart the plug and put it back together. With it torn down it is so easy to pull the wires throw the handlebars. Yes use wire lube.

 

Yup, the green plug is definitely there...


So I went home and took the bike apart, got the TBW out of the old bars and was feeling ambitious so I attempted the wiring. I used the parachute cord that I had run down the bars a few days prior.
I did the TBW first, and left it hanging about 6-8" out of the end of the bar. This gave me enough room to get the right side control wires in the hole and start feeding them toward the hook. I didn't use any lube at all and I have to say, it was surprisingly easy to do. I didn't have any trouble getting either set of wires over that sharp bend.





I placed the bars upside down on a blanket on my kitchen table and used the push pull method. I fed the wires in until they hit the hook, then pushed them in toward the center of the bar. Pushing is the key here, not pulling. It probably took me all of 30 minutes to do both sides. This is where I stopped for the night, so I don't know if everything works yet, but at no time did I feel anything drag or hang up to where I thought I might be doing damage to the wires while pulling them through. The control wires got a little hung up at the center of the bar right before they came out, but pushing the TBW back toward the grip helped clear that right up. I got the 12" MBB so the connectors barely stick out the center hole. I'll get everything mounted and test it before I button it back up for good.

I'll tell you what took me the longest, was the riser bushings...
I got the poly Drag Specialties OEM replacements; they assemble just like the rubber ones but are stiffer.





I lubed the dog-**** out of them with WD-40, top in then the bottom. I then attempted to drive the sleeve through the center. These things are stiff, and each time I tried this I pushed the bottom bushing out.
I finally ended up installing the upper/lower bushing, then turned the fork full lock to the left (just like you have to do to remove the riser bolt) and placed a small piece of wood between the lower bushing and the frame neck.








I was then able to drive the metal sleeve through both bushings without pushing the lower one out. Repeat for the opposite side. Had I used the aluminum bushings like the guy in the "Ride it Wrench it" video, I wouldn't have had this problem but I wanted to stay away from solid bushings.



So that's my experience thus far; and for all you wondering, YES I took pictures and YES I will post them up later. I hope this information help someone out there.

 

UPDATE:


Got the bars mounted, bike fired up just fine and everything works. I don't think I'm going to be able to get away with the stock clutch and brake cable though. No matter how I run them, they're too tight.


Anybody running the 12" MBB have the same issue? Any advice on this?

 

You may have already searched trough here, but if not: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/new-r...he-apes-2.html

Might see someone in there 12's and clutch cable advice.

Nice work with the wire pull.

 

Yeah, I'm probably missing something. I'll take another peek at it tonight.

 

I have installed 4 sets of 12" YMB on 14/15's batwings to date... one set of 14's... NONE of them needed new hyd lines for clutch or brake...

A reroute of the lines can be done without disconnecting... take the lever(s) off and run the res down thru the triples with the forks turned.. there is a sweet spot where they fit at the right angle.

Take the lines out of the holder on the ride side of frame by the neck below the tank... this will free up a lot of line for you...

 

^^ good to know^^

 

I got a chance to take a quick peek at this last night and I think I see what you mean. I'm free after work today so I'm going straight home to try and sort this out.


Thanks for the tip.


UPDATE:

Levers are all mounted, as stated above there is plenty of slack in the line if you unclip the lines from the bracket mounted on the neck. After that it's just a matter of figuring out the best path to route them. Also, I was able to pass the resivoir with the levers attached through the forks after moving the frame mounted bracket up and out of the way.