I did not yet source a service manual for my 5 day old road glide. I'm just curious how a clutch adjustment is performed with the new Rushmores.

 

Hydraulic clutch needs no adjustment.

 

Thanks, I did not know that.

I have a lot of trouble finding neutral, on my old bike a clutch adjustment usually fixed that. Is there something I can do that will help with that?

 

Yes, put some miles on.

 

Get a few miles on it ,Put your new fluids (whichever you prefer) and you'll see a big improvement. Gonna miss that Green Bike?

 

You very well might find that the problem is with the primary chain auto-adjuster over tightening the chain. I know for a fact that after several thousand trouble-free miles, the Baker Attitude Adjuster I installed in my '15 Limited at 62 total miles (the distance from the dealer to my shop) the day I bought the bike afforded a HUGE and instantaneous improvement in easily finding neutral, whether still rolling or completely stopped, and shifting noise and smoothness were also very much improved and that annoying whirring sound coming from the primary disappeared.

Have you noticed that clank-bang noise and maybe even a slight forward lurch when going from neutral to first? That's also gone on mine - and when the bike's cold, it goes into first silently!

You're on the right track about the clutch dragging, but in this case it's due to the banjo-string-tight chain binding up the freewheel bearing in the clutch and trying to drive the tranny through that bearing.

I found the chain on mine to be so tight, when the bike was stone-cold and before I removed the (IMO, total POS) auto-tensioner for its one-way trip to the dumpster, that it didn't deflect more than about 1/16" when I put about ten pounds of pressure on it between the sprockets - and it gets considerably TIGHTER once the bike's at op temp.

I really don't see how the bearings and other components in the primary can take that kind of abuse for any length of time at all. They must be damn tough is all I can say.

I also went with Redline in the primary and tranny, but I don't know if that had any additional effect or not.

It's not a super-difficult install for anyone with moderate mechanical knowledge and skills, the correct tools, the factory service manual and the ability to carefully read and follow directions.

Anyway, best of luck with your new ride, and stay safe.

Also, I'm not affiliated with Baker Inc. in any way, just a big fan of this particular product!

JP

 

Take the heel shifter off

 

Leave the heel-shifter ON. I've changed the fluids in my clutch and trans very 5000miles (yeah, I know...excessive, waste of money, etc...but I don't care cuz I ride LOTS and OFTEN on long uninterrupted trip miles and in stop-go lane-splitting threading the needle commuter traffic ) It didn't make any difference to me what fluid brand/type I used in those two holes...what made a BIG difference was where I leveled the heel lever, the accumulated miles, and how I finessed my heel tap after I found 1st gear...and I came from the sportbike and dual-sport crowd I LOVE the way my heel/toe shifter works on my RGS

 

Just ride it and break it in. You'll notice with the hydraulic clutch that the clutch fluid will rise in the master cylinder as your clutch wears, don't add or remove any fluid from the master cylinder. Just change out your formula+ at your break-in service (38 oz) and continue to ride. Getting into neutral is easiest by going into first, then tapping the heel shifter back into neutral.


You can get your service manual here for only $19 if you don't mind a digital version, works great on an iPad with the GoodReader app. I haven't seen the 2016 manuals uploaded yet. http://www.motorcycle-manual-downloa...roducts_id=241

 

After the bike breaks in finding neutral will be much easier. I even find it with the heel shifter so no need to take that off. After 1st fluid change don't use regular oil or SYN in trans or primary. All will be well just give it break in time.