I buy what meets the Specs and weight required AND is on sale, no oil brand loyalty here

 

Here is the manufacturers spec for my 2014 Ultra Limited: From the service manual-

(not a direct quote, but close enough)
This motorcycle was orignallly equipped with Genuine HD 360 Motorcycle oil 20W50. HD 360 is the preferred oil under normal operating conditions. If operating in extreme temperatures, see the chart for alternative choices (chart listed other weights of HD 360 oil)

If necessary, and if HD 360 oil is not available, add oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable designations include CH-4, CI-4, and CJ-4. (goes on to list viscosities in preferred order).

At the first opportunity, see an Authorized Harley Davidson dealer to change back to genuide HD oil.



Not a terribly informative mfg. spec., doesn't cover most of the oils mentioned in this or the bazillion other oil threads. Any wonder some confusion exists on this topic? Maybe other bike models have more useful mfg. specs.

 

maybe a good attorney could argue and win that since they state to change it back to HD oil, that HD must do all oil changes for free -- something about the Magnuson - Moss actd

Just sayin

 

Not completely accurate but idea is correct. Im one of those who gets UOAs done and having two metric bikes before the HD I can clarify this for you.

1. When you read the UOAs (used oil analysis) you will find the engine oil in the metric bikes and any other bike that shares the engine oil with the transmission will ALWAYS shear down a grade or half a grade depending on your choice of oil.
Example a 20/50 will become closer to a 20/45, a 10/40 will become a 10/35 and it is possible a 5/40 will become closer to a 5/30.

This is caused by the gears in the transmission crushing and destroying the "Viscosity Improvers" in the oil.
The viscosity improver is what makes (example) that 20 weight oil act like a 50 weight oil when hot = 20/50.
That 20 weight oil have viscosity improvers in them, which are polymers that expand when hot, making the oil act like a 50 weight.
The gears in the transmission and clutch tear up and crush the polymers and as a result the oil ends up at a lower grade in time.
Most of this damage is done in the first 2000 miles or so, after that it tends to level off and settle at the lower viscosity.
(the statement above is a general overview, its more complicated)

Now since a 20/50 oil uses less viscosity improver, it will not shear down as much, same goes for a 15/40 HDEO oil. 15 and 20 oils do not need as much viscosity improvers to make then act like a 50 or 40 weight oil when hot then a 10/40 oil... .and without a doubt a 5/40 oil becomes a 5/30 oil very fast.


You do not have to worry about engine oil shearing in an HD engine or ANY other motorcycle engine that does not share the engine oil with the transmission and clutch. Your pretty much free to use any oil and any automobile oil you wish.
You will find the conventional HD 20/50 does very well with the wear numbers and Valvoline 20/50 VR1 racing oil at the top of the class with other oils like Amsoil etc. Pretty much with a Harley, just change your oil when your supposed to and any quality oil will do fine.
Personally I would stick with name brand oils in 20/50 weight ...
Valvoline Motorcycle oil or VR1 (any kind synthetic or conventional), Amsoil, Mobile 1, HD360 (HD 360 conventional does VERY well in wear tests, a good oil, pricey but good, you cant go wring with it), If your a winter rider and riding in the 40 to 55 temp range I at that time may choose an HDEO 15/40.

Bottom line, right or wrong, my personal feelings on all this oil stuff is ...
I like conventional oils in my bike (for now) Im using conventional HD360 right now, bike is new, last bike and bike before that I used $4.00 Valvoline Conventional 20/50 motocycle oil and an HDEO 15/40 in the winter.
I change the oil 2 to 3 times a year and every 2000 to 3000 miles.

If I was one to change at 4000 to 5000 or more miles chances are I would then go synthetic or if I did little riding and only changing oil 1 time a year I would also go synthetic using any of the brands above mentioned. I do believe Amsoil is one hell of a solid oil for the extremes.

As far as "boutique" oils (not mentioned in this post to avoid an oil war), to this very day, I have never seen a good UOA that came close to the oils mentioned above, not that their isnt one but I have never seen one, the ones I do see arent very impressive, anyway, why I stick to name brands....
Bottom line is, using a brand name oil is splitting hairs when it comes to which one is best if you change your oil when you are supposed to and of course there is nothing wrong using a super high quality oil if it makes you happy..