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Which O2 sensor eliminator do you use?

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  #11  
Old 11-19-2014, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by danielillo
Tuning the bike for open loop is just what I did with my PV and, before using the "piece of tape" method (I must say I also thought about it in our last travel ) I would like to try with the O2 eliminator, just in case it appears any other error I will be warned by that light ;-)


Nobody uses 02 sensor eliminators in their 2014-2015 touring?
Post up your PV tune, I'd love to take a look at it.
 
  #12  
Old 11-19-2014, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FinalShot
Post up your PV tune, I'd love to take a look at it.
Thanks for your suggestions!!

I use the tune the people from Dynojet recommended me (14T103002403), I have SE Heavy Breather, 2009 non-cat header and original slip ons without baffles (SE Slash Down will arrive in about 10 days), I only set them in open loop changing temperatures value. Performance is amazing, I have no complains in this aspect.


A question I have after reading some replies, once we have the bike tuned in open loop, what's the reason of having the sensors connected?


Thanks again and excuse any spelling mistake, as you can imagine English is not my native language ;-)
 
  #13  
Old 11-19-2014, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by danielillo
Thanks for your suggestions!!

I use the tune the people from Dynojet recommended me (14T103002403), I have SE Heavy Breather, 2009 non-cat header and original slip ons without baffles (SE Slash Down will arrive in about 10 days), I only set them in open loop changing temperatures value. Performance is amazing, I have no complains in this aspect.


A question I have after reading some replies, once we have the bike tuned in open loop, what's the reason of having the sensors connected?


Thanks again and excuse any spelling mistake, as you can imagine English is not my native language ;-)

Usted Inglés es mucho mucho mejor que mi español.


I am not sure on the dynojet tune but don't think many of their tunes run in open loop at all AFR settings. Even in open loop, the O2 sensors still are reporting some information back to the ECM but not sure and I think this is where your problem is. The O2 sensors should be in the exhaust stream. I would find a set of decatted pipes for a 2010+, order the pipes that go with your slip ons or have a local weld shop add the bungs. You could call Jamie at Fuel Moto and see if he could help you out. I think this is the only real way you will get the CEl to go away. Plus, with my 2013 I used to have, I saw no more improvement in performance running in open loop at all settings.
 
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnut1
Look into a Thundermax by Zippers, they have the big sensors and they are live feedback. I put one on my 14 RK and added about 20 horse power. It runs real strong now. This will solve all your problems. I know they are expensive but I found one on ebay for $400 and man it is worth it. Oh and it Auto Tunes. Sweet
20 HP? Measured on a rear wheel dyno or a butt dyno? 20 HP for $400 would be quite the bargain.
 
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:10 PM
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I used O2 block offs from dyno jet when using a PCV on my 2014,
I've since re-installed my O2 sensors and switched to a powervision.

Never threw a code once.
 
  #16  
Old 11-20-2014, 07:16 AM
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20 on the butt dyno. I found a video on youtube of a 14 streetglide and similar setup to mine. The before dyno run 66 hp,,, after 86. So after I installed and ran several runs for the auto tune to run, I truly feel I gained near the 20 hp as stated on the video.


$400 was for the tuner, I already had the Rinehart true duals, and Velicaraptor AC
 
  #17  
Old 11-20-2014, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by danielillo
Thanks for your suggestions!!

I use the tune the people from Dynojet recommended me (14T103002403), I have SE Heavy Breather, 2009 non-cat header and original slip ons without baffles (SE Slash Down will arrive in about 10 days), I only set them in open loop changing temperatures value. Performance is amazing, I have no complains in this aspect.


A question I have after reading some replies, once we have the bike tuned in open loop, what's the reason of having the sensors connected?


Thanks again and excuse any spelling mistake, as you can imagine English is not my native language ;-)
Why not just decat the pipe that came on the bike then? Its a simple process if you have access to a welder and a saw. Or take it in and have it cut and welded back together. Problems solved.

Batman.
 
  #18  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by batman.
Why not just decat the pipe that came on the bike then? Its a simple process if you have access to a welder and a saw. Or take it in and have it cut and welded back together. Problems solved.

Batman.
I wish in Spain we could do this, but I need to keep all stock material as it is for our inspection.

We are not even allowed to change the mufflers so what everybody does is keep the OEM at home and, when it's inspection time, we leave the bike as it came from stock, pass "the exam" and mount again all our pipes, AC, header,....
 
  #19  
Old 11-20-2014, 10:59 AM
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I don;t know about the shipping costs but you can find take offs as well as already modded head pipes on ebay, here and a sponsor sells them as well. This really is the way you need to go if you can't get a local shop to weld new bungs.
 
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