How-To Replace Harley Davidson Handlebar Grips
This is your guide for how to replace Harley-Davidson handlebar grips. Note: refer to your Harley-Davidson service manual for complete information.
Tools and Supplies Required
- Allen (hex) wrench set, or torx kit, depending what controls you have on your handlebars
- flathead screwdriver with long, thin handle
- set of small open-end wrenches (American sizes)
- long tweezers
- needle-nose pliers
- small hacksaw
- solvent
- carburetor cleaner
- cable lubricant
- adhesive
Installing the Left-Hand Grip
Begin with the left grip. (Patterned grips require starting with the
right grip in order for you to line up the grips correctly. See below
for right grip install.)
- If you would like to save the old grip, spray some
carburetor cleaner between the grip and the handlebar; the carb cleaner
should breakdown the old adhesive so you can twist off the old grip.
You can also use compressed air to try to break the adhesive bond. To
remove the old grip, not caring whether you destroy it, cut off the
very end of it. In order to find the very end, squeeze the grip from
the control covers back, feeling where the metal handlebar ends. Use
your hacksaw to cut off the very end of grip with cap. If you nick the
handlebar with the saw blade, it’s OK because the new grip will hide
any blemish. Spray carburetor cleaner between the grip and the
handlebar to make it easier to remove; twist off grip. - Remove
the screws from the left-hand controls. This will enable you to
separate the two halves of the switch “pod” on each control cover. To
aid in re-installation, notice if there is a recess on the switch pod
halves. The recess is for the end of the new grip. If there is no
recess, you will butt up the ends of the grip to the switch pod. - Insert
the long handled screwdriver between the grip and the handlebar and
twist it entirely around the handlebar in order to break the adhesive
bond. You can also spray carburetor cleaner between bar and grip to
help break the bond. - After you have successfully removed
the old grip, apply a solvent like paint thinner onto the old adhesive
in order to help dissolve and remove it completely. You can also use
emery paper help grind it off. Remove as much of the old adhesive as
possible. - Apply adhesive to the inside of the new grip;
also apply some to the handlebar where the new grip will rest. Note: it
is best to apply slightly less adhesive than too much, in order to
avoid having to clean up excess adhesive. - Push the new grip onto the handlebar and position it where you want it.
- Screw
together the control halves and insert the end of the grip into the
pod, if so equipped. If your control pod does not have this feature,
butt up the end of the grip to the pod.
Installing the Right-Hand Grip
Note: Whenever you disassemble the right grip, take care not to
damage the brake light switch up reassembling it. Insert a washer or
some cardboard where the hand lever comes in contact with the brake
light switch. It is advisable to squeeze the brake lever when you
assemble the halves to avoid damaging the switch.
- Remove the air cleaner cover and air filter.
- There are cable adjusters on the idle return and throttle cables. To access these adjusters, slide back their vinyl coverings.
- Use
one of your small open-end wrenches to back off the lock nut on the
throttle cable six or eight turns. (The throttle cable is the cable on
the front wheel side of your Harley.) Next, turn the long hex adjuster
toward the grip approximately six turns. This provides some slack – how
much is not important right now. - Similar to what you did on
the left side, remove the top switch pod cover using the hex wrenches
or torx keys. Carefully observe how the cables route on the outside of
the grip and how the ferrules which are attached to the ends of the
control cables capture them – all of this in relation to the notches on
the old grip. Look at the new grip and note how the notches on it will
capture the ferrules. - Note how much slack there is. To find
out if you have enough slack on the throttle cable side (front side) in
order to remove the ferrule from the notch, twist the grip a little
side to side. - If you find you have enough slack, use the
needle nose pliers to carefully remove the ferrule from the notch. (Try
not to damage the cables.) The grip should no longer capture the
ferrule. If there is not enough slack, use your open-end wrench on the
adjuster again and back it off a little more. Caution:
Do not drop the ferrules into the lower switch pods. If you do,
retrieve them using the long tweezers. For safety reasons, never leave
them in the pods. - After the front ferrule is out of the
notch, twist the grip toward the rear wheel a bit; because the front
cable is off you can easily remove the rear ferrule from the rear notch
on the grip. Next, make some room under the bottom switch pod and pull
the grip off of the bar. It is not necessary for you to pull the cable
guide (the 90-degree tubing) from the bottom of the switch pod, unless
you are also going to change the control cables. - Carefully read the following instructions to make sure you understand them before beginning the next section.
- Use
a solvent to clean off the old lubricant from the handlebar. Apply new
lubricant (you can use a cable lubricant like Dri Slide). Also
lubricate the cables by putting a few drops in where the cables meet
the sheath. - Install the new grip onto the bar and roll the
idle cable ferrule into the back notch on the grip. Be certain the
ferrule is securely in the notch. Twist the grip a little forward. This
will help it enter into the notch as you roll the front ferrule into
place. Now you should have both the ferrules into their notches on the
grip; the cables are in their guides with no damage or twisting. - Install the switch pod covers. Adjust the throttle and idle return cables.
- Remove
the slack from the throttle cable, leaving the idle return cable as it
is for now. Your goal is make the adjustment so the carburetor throat
is completely open. Remove the filter/air cleaner assembly. Open the
throttle completely, then gaze down into either the FI butterflies or
the carburetor throat (depending on model). Your goal is to get the
complete pull on the carburetor/throttle body, then you will back off
just a bit to avoid stretching the cable when you open the throttle
fully. When your adjustments are right, you will get the FI throat or
carburetor butterfly to open completely – that’s your goal. Tighten the
cable adjuster a bit more until the FI throat or carb is completely
open. Caution: do not tighten the cable too much. - Remove
enough slack on the idle return cable adjuster so that it is hand snug.
Next, roll the throttle completely open, then observe if it snaps
completely closed. Do this a number of times and note whether the
throttle closes well and returns well, also. Then turn the front wheel
side-to-side and recheck. Tighten the idle return cable adjuster
locknut onto the long hex adjuster. To be certain the throttle snaps
closes well, check it again. If there is any question–if you see, hear
or feel any lag in the action or the throttle refuses to snap
closed–back off the idle return adjuster a bit, in small increments,
until the throttle operates properly and well. - Continue
testing. Sit on your Harley and turn the front wheel to the left all
the way. Snap shut the throttle again. Now turn your front wheel to the
right all the way and test the throttle action again. Place the front
wheel straight on and test again. When you can position the front wheel
to lock along with a great throttle return, then the job is finished.
If you find any dragging, notching, hesitation or lagging, back off the
idle cable adjuster a bit until the throttle absolutely shuts off. - When you find all is well, push the idle adjuster and throttle covers into place. Reinstall the air cleaner – job done!
Note: Allow the grip adhesive to dry overnight.